Day 33 – Kwazulu Natal

Sept 30th

Background
The providence of Kwazulu Natal is referred to as the “Kingdom of the Zulu” and claims to be the oldest game reserve in Africa, the Hluhuluwe-Umfolozi Game Reserve. Established in 1895, this reserve spans 237,000 acres of hilly terrain and wooden savannah. The park claimed international standing in the 1950s-60s when it implemented Operation Rhino to increase the then diminishing white rhino population through anti-poaching control. The park has the largest population of white and black rhinos in the world. The wild dog, Africa’s most-endangered carnivore, is the camp’s primary conservation priority at the moment.

Travel Time
After a long night of packing and an hour of distorted sleep (I was terrified of sleeping through my flight), I finally pulled myself out of bed at 3AM. I headed to the Union to catch some last min zzz’s before heading out with my group for the airport. Our 2-hour flight to Durban, a city on the eastern cape of South Africa, felt like 5 mins because I slept the whole way. Once we boarded our bus, the other students and I were too excited to sleep and chatted away about seeing the “Big 5” on our safari. (The Big 5 consists of elephant, buffalo, leopard, lion and warthog, because they are the 5 most elusive animals.) We listened to Elvis’ gospel music (per our driver’s request) and munched on snacks that we had picked up at a gas station along the way. After four hours of various car games and sporadic naps, we finally reached Nyalazi Gate, which is the entrance to the park. Then began our first game drive as we proceeded to Vulamehlo Craft Market to admire various African crafts. While there we saw our first safari animal, as there were vampire bats sleeping above the thatch roof of the craft market.

Game drive
After the market, we finally began our first game drive as we proceeded to Sontuli camp for the night. Along the way, we saw giraffes, white rhinos, spingbok, kudu, zebra, velvet monkies, buffalo, birds and even a large spider nest that supposedly held more than 10,000 white spiders. After twelve hours of travel time, we finally made it to Sontuli camp to meet our ranger Stephen.

Sontuli Camp
The camp was a basic campground with platform tents containing four bunk beds, a shower house and separate kitchen where Mama Cook would prepare our meals. There was no electricity and no basic plumbing as we found out when the showers only spewed clumpy, mud water. Stephen a man in camouflage and military pants tucked into his socks and huge hiking boots readily greeted us when we pulled in. He gathered us around the campfire to explain safety rules and introduce to the camp. My suspicions were confirmed that there would be no oranges at the camp, since they do in fact attract elephants. Also, our camp was strictly run under the buddy system whenever you wanted to go off somewhere. As Stephen put it, “It’s always better to have someone slower than you with you at all times.” Then Stephen handed out eggs and made us draw faces on one side and a name on the other. I named mine Kudu, after the deer-like animal we saw earlier, but Stephen informed me that they are named that because when the animal jumps their balls slap their skin and make a “ku-du” sound. I think that’s when I realized he was a very, very crude and sarcastic human being. I’m still not sure, however, if he was serious when he said he would kill a human (us) over any of the animals in the park. In the end, this camp was the closest I will ever get to marines boot camp. Essentially, when he says sit, your ass hugs the ground. After being toyed with enough, Stephen let us get dinner. Mama Cook made us meat lasagna, which was pretty much just meat, and a side salad for dinner. Afterwards we hung around the campfire, while Stephen told us bush stories and harassed us about our egg babies. If we said something stupid or misbehaved, he threw our egg children at us. From that moment on, I knew it was going to be a safari I would never forget.

Highs and Lows
My “high” was going to bed so early I felt like a kindergartener again! My “low” was experiencing severe narcolepsy throughout most of the day.