Sept 30th
Background
The providence of Kwazulu Natal is referred to as the “Kingdom of the Zulu” and claims to be the oldest game reserve in Africa, the Hluhuluwe-Umfolozi Game Reserve. Established in 1895, this reserve spans 237,000 acres of hilly terrain and wooden savannah. The park claimed international standing in the 1950s-60s when it implemented Operation Rhino to increase the then diminishing white rhino population through anti-poaching control. The park has the largest population of white and black rhinos in the world. The wild dog, Africa’s most-endangered carnivore, is the camp’s primary conservation priority at the moment.
Travel Time
After a long night of packing and an hour of distorted sleep (I was terrified of sleeping through my flight), I finally pulled myself out of bed at 3AM. I headed to the Union to catch some last min zzz’s before heading out with my group for the airport. Our 2-hour flight to Durban, a city on the eastern cape of South Africa, felt like 5 mins because I slept the whole way. Once we boarded our bus, the other students and I were too excited to sleep and chatted away about seeing the “Big 5” on our safari. (The Big 5 consists of elephant, buffalo, leopard, lion and warthog, because they are the 5 most elusive animals.) We listened to Elvis’ gospel music (per our driver’s request) and munched on snacks that we had picked up at a gas station along the way. After four hours of various car games and sporadic naps, we finally reached Nyalazi Gate, which is the entrance to the park. Then began our first game drive as we proceeded to Vulamehlo Craft Market to admire various African crafts. While there we saw our first safari animal, as there were vampire bats sleeping above the thatch roof of the craft market.
Game drive
After the market, we finally began our first game drive as we proceeded to Sontuli camp for the night. Along the way, we saw giraffes, white rhinos, spingbok, kudu, zebra, velvet monkies, buffalo, birds and even a large spider nest that supposedly held more than 10,000 white spiders. After twelve hours of travel time, we finally made it to Sontuli camp to meet our ranger Stephen.
Sontuli Camp
The camp was a basic campground with platform tents containing four bunk beds, a shower house and separate kitchen where Mama Cook would prepare our meals. There was no electricity and no basic plumbing as we found out when the showers only spewed clumpy, mud water. Stephen a man in camouflage and military pants tucked into his socks and huge hiking boots readily greeted us when we pulled in. He gathered us around the campfire to explain safety rules and introduce to the camp. My suspicions were confirmed that there would be no oranges at the camp, since they do in fact attract elephants. Also, our camp was strictly run under the buddy system whenever you wanted to go off somewhere. As Stephen put it, “It’s always better to have someone slower than you with you at all times.” Then Stephen handed out eggs and made us draw faces on one side and a name on the other. I named mine Kudu, after the deer-like animal we saw earlier, but Stephen informed me that they are named that because when the animal jumps their balls slap their skin and make a “ku-du” sound. I think that’s when I realized he was a very, very crude and sarcastic human being. I’m still not sure, however, if he was serious when he said he would kill a human (us) over any of the animals in the park. In the end, this camp was the closest I will ever get to marines boot camp. Essentially, when he says sit, your ass hugs the ground. After being toyed with enough, Stephen let us get dinner. Mama Cook made us meat lasagna, which was pretty much just meat, and a side salad for dinner. Afterwards we hung around the campfire, while Stephen told us bush stories and harassed us about our egg babies. If we said something stupid or misbehaved, he threw our egg children at us. From that moment on, I knew it was going to be a safari I would never forget.
Highs and Lows
My “high” was going to bed so early I felt like a kindergartener again! My “low” was experiencing severe narcolepsy throughout most of the day.
Tuesday, September 30, 2008
Monday, September 29, 2008
Day 32 – Cooking and Cheetahs
Sept 29th
Bo-Kaap District
In the morning, I teamed up with Ryan, Danny and Shamus for traditional Cape Malay cooking class in the Bo-Kaap district. This is the lively and vibrant Muslim community in Cape Town that sprung up due to apartheid segregation laws. What used to be a poor area of the working class, Bo-Kaap has become a hot spot for the wealthy since it so conveniently located near the center of town. This has pushed out a lot of the original tenants, making the district an amalgamation of various cultures. There is even an infamous dividing fence that clearly separates the “suburbs” from “the city.” Most of the area is made up of rows of brightly colored and interconnected houses that create a close-knit community block. Nuzzian, our guide and a local from the area, was lively and excited about teaching us “curry in a hurry” and about Islam traditions and culture. In the colonial past, black slaves were encouraged to convert to Islam because Christians were not allowed to be bought or sold. They also could not drink, so they made excellent security guards for vineyards. He showed us the oldest mosque in South Africa and took us to the local supermarket to collect ingredients.
Cape Malay Cooking
At the supermarket, Nuzzian made us experience the original form of curry leaf and various curry spices that made many of us sneeze all over the place. We discussed traditional cooking techniques, like boiling rice with cinnamon sticks to make it sweet and putting henna in curry as a ‘secret’ ingredient. The supermarket was filled with basmati rice, turmeric, henna, incense and other assorted goods. During our tour, we heard the noon gun that is shot every day at exactly 12 o’clock from the Castle of Good Hope. (Many in Cape Town set their watch to it.) After we each got some dried mango as snacks for the road, we headed to our cooking instructor Damidah’s house. Once we arrived and introduced ourselves, we rolled up our sleeves, washed our hands and toasted with a traditional welcome drink. The drink tasted like strawberry milk, but was really a combination of warm milk, rose syrup and fennel seeds. The seeds softened from the heat of the milk and were easy to sip down as well. Then we moved onto purr, which is flour and water kneaded and rolled out into almost transparent dough lines. Dmaidah showed us how to fold the purr into a triangle pocket and fill it with a chicken curry filling to eventually wrap into a tight samoosas. The samoosa triangular package is then fry in a pan and ready to eat. We moved on to kneading and forming roti, which is a pancake-like bread. After rolling it out, we spread butter over the top and then folded it a few more times to mix the butter in, so that it would fluff the bread up when fried. Finally after all the hard work, we were able to sit and enjoy a full meal. We had roti, which is torn and used to pick up food, with chicken curry and ‘tomato and onion sambal’ sauce on the side. The sauce was the best part of the meal. (Family, get ready for a delicious Cape Mayal meal when I get back! I have all the recipes!) For desert, Dmaidah made us sticky doughnuts with coconut shavings and roobios tea. It was wonderful chatting with her and her impressive 3 year-old that already plays strategic war games online. So, if you are wondering who just kicked our ass at Halo online, it was a 3 year-old wearing a Barbie t-shirt from Bo-Kaap.
Afternoon at Spier
Ryan, Danny and I gathered a few other students to venture out to Spier, a vineyard compound near Stellenbosch. After playing “moles or freckles?” for 40 mins on the car ride out, we finally arrived at Spier to find a portion of the vineyard was a cheetah reserve. After wondering if it was a good idea to wine taste before petting cheetahs, we headed to the cheetah reserve first. There we met Kuai, a six year-old cheetah, and talk to the rangers about the animals. The coolest part was touching their shoulders, which are not connected to the backbone, but are set in muscle and thus float around in the socket. Having our fill of cheetah love, we made our way to the main house for wine tasting. After discovering the difference between Chardonney and Cabnernet Sauvignon, we wandered around the area to admire the landscape before relaxing at the bar before dinner. Moya, the restaurant on the compound, provides over 70 traditional African dishes buffet style. Upon walking into the large, colorful tent, women paint your faces with white-dot African designs. Singers and dancers performed on stage, while we made multiple trips to the buffet line. We filled up on antelope, springbock, chicken, beef, vegetables and starches complimented with various sauces and spices. Desert was apple pie, cheesecake, chocolate cake and a sticky donut all covered in oozy custard sauce. Then headed back to the waterfront via our mini bus to recover from our stomach aches for the rest of the night.
Highs and Lows
My “high” was snuggle with a giant cheetah. My “low” it being Ramadan and not being able to share the delicious home cooked meal with Damidah and her daughter.
Bo-Kaap District
In the morning, I teamed up with Ryan, Danny and Shamus for traditional Cape Malay cooking class in the Bo-Kaap district. This is the lively and vibrant Muslim community in Cape Town that sprung up due to apartheid segregation laws. What used to be a poor area of the working class, Bo-Kaap has become a hot spot for the wealthy since it so conveniently located near the center of town. This has pushed out a lot of the original tenants, making the district an amalgamation of various cultures. There is even an infamous dividing fence that clearly separates the “suburbs” from “the city.” Most of the area is made up of rows of brightly colored and interconnected houses that create a close-knit community block. Nuzzian, our guide and a local from the area, was lively and excited about teaching us “curry in a hurry” and about Islam traditions and culture. In the colonial past, black slaves were encouraged to convert to Islam because Christians were not allowed to be bought or sold. They also could not drink, so they made excellent security guards for vineyards. He showed us the oldest mosque in South Africa and took us to the local supermarket to collect ingredients.
Cape Malay Cooking
At the supermarket, Nuzzian made us experience the original form of curry leaf and various curry spices that made many of us sneeze all over the place. We discussed traditional cooking techniques, like boiling rice with cinnamon sticks to make it sweet and putting henna in curry as a ‘secret’ ingredient. The supermarket was filled with basmati rice, turmeric, henna, incense and other assorted goods. During our tour, we heard the noon gun that is shot every day at exactly 12 o’clock from the Castle of Good Hope. (Many in Cape Town set their watch to it.) After we each got some dried mango as snacks for the road, we headed to our cooking instructor Damidah’s house. Once we arrived and introduced ourselves, we rolled up our sleeves, washed our hands and toasted with a traditional welcome drink. The drink tasted like strawberry milk, but was really a combination of warm milk, rose syrup and fennel seeds. The seeds softened from the heat of the milk and were easy to sip down as well. Then we moved onto purr, which is flour and water kneaded and rolled out into almost transparent dough lines. Dmaidah showed us how to fold the purr into a triangle pocket and fill it with a chicken curry filling to eventually wrap into a tight samoosas. The samoosa triangular package is then fry in a pan and ready to eat. We moved on to kneading and forming roti, which is a pancake-like bread. After rolling it out, we spread butter over the top and then folded it a few more times to mix the butter in, so that it would fluff the bread up when fried. Finally after all the hard work, we were able to sit and enjoy a full meal. We had roti, which is torn and used to pick up food, with chicken curry and ‘tomato and onion sambal’ sauce on the side. The sauce was the best part of the meal. (Family, get ready for a delicious Cape Mayal meal when I get back! I have all the recipes!) For desert, Dmaidah made us sticky doughnuts with coconut shavings and roobios tea. It was wonderful chatting with her and her impressive 3 year-old that already plays strategic war games online. So, if you are wondering who just kicked our ass at Halo online, it was a 3 year-old wearing a Barbie t-shirt from Bo-Kaap.
Afternoon at Spier
Ryan, Danny and I gathered a few other students to venture out to Spier, a vineyard compound near Stellenbosch. After playing “moles or freckles?” for 40 mins on the car ride out, we finally arrived at Spier to find a portion of the vineyard was a cheetah reserve. After wondering if it was a good idea to wine taste before petting cheetahs, we headed to the cheetah reserve first. There we met Kuai, a six year-old cheetah, and talk to the rangers about the animals. The coolest part was touching their shoulders, which are not connected to the backbone, but are set in muscle and thus float around in the socket. Having our fill of cheetah love, we made our way to the main house for wine tasting. After discovering the difference between Chardonney and Cabnernet Sauvignon, we wandered around the area to admire the landscape before relaxing at the bar before dinner. Moya, the restaurant on the compound, provides over 70 traditional African dishes buffet style. Upon walking into the large, colorful tent, women paint your faces with white-dot African designs. Singers and dancers performed on stage, while we made multiple trips to the buffet line. We filled up on antelope, springbock, chicken, beef, vegetables and starches complimented with various sauces and spices. Desert was apple pie, cheesecake, chocolate cake and a sticky donut all covered in oozy custard sauce. Then headed back to the waterfront via our mini bus to recover from our stomach aches for the rest of the night.
Highs and Lows
My “high” was snuggle with a giant cheetah. My “low” it being Ramadan and not being able to share the delicious home cooked meal with Damidah and her daughter.
Sunday, September 28, 2008
Day 31 – Winelands
Sept 28th
Morning on the Warf
Christina and I passed the morning walking around the Victoria waterfront. We admired Table Mountain over a breakfast of yogurt, muesli (like granola), fruit and roobios tea. Afterward, we meandered around to see the iconic Clock Tower, the Craft Market and the Two Oceans Aquarium. The warf is a particularly lively place with shops, restaurants and activities all around. There were multiple singing group dressed in colorful, woven clothes singing in Xhosa or other African languages. The drums of music and buzz of people on the streets made it quite an exciting place to kill a few hours.
Tour and Constantia
After grabbing to-go lunches at Kauai, Christina and I hopped in Terrances’ (Christina’s friend from high school who studies here) car to get a local’s tour of the area with Sara, Brittany and Goldie. He took us the district called the Observatory, where Cape Town University is located and most students live. Then we passed through Claremont, where we were the other night, to Wynberg Park to see the sudden forest of pine trees spring out of nowhere. After passing the Kirstenboasch Botantical Gardens, we made our way further south to Constantia for a wine tasting at Groot Constantia. After a round of sipping whites, reds and desert wines, we toured the Groot Constantia Estate, which is also known as the birthplace of South African wine. Along the way, we spotted wild bamboos among the vines and observed the Cape Dutch architecture of the Cloete Cellar and Manor House, which were built in 1685. On the way home, Terrance insisted we stop at a local grocery store to try milk tart and biltong (like beef jerky). We didn’t complain.
Dinner with Danie
Despite a heavy study schedule, Danie came to Cape Town from Stellenbosch (about 40 mins northeast) to hang out and have dinner! (A good friend of mine through the Scarsdale school system, Danie moved back to South Africa in 10th grade with his family.) Somehow, he found his way right to Aton’s (Goldie’s cousin) house by his mentioning of the “tampon towers.” Catching up with him was as if we had never been apart and it was so nice to bridge the gap after two whole years apart! Later the whole group of us went to ‘India in Cape’ on Kloof Street for dinner. We split a round of nan and roti (breads) and lentil stews, while I had my first encounter with pineapple Fanta. Brittany and I ended up sharing two Chinese dishes at this Indian restaurant, but everyone passed around the dishes to taste a little of everything. Per Danie’s request we went out to Bob’s on Long Street for ‘vodkas with passion fruit’ and ‘Stroth shots.’ (Unfortunately, Danie had to go back to Stellenbosch to study for exams for the rest of the night.) The first drink was sweet and delicious, but the latter shot burned the whole way down. We settled our soar throats over a causal round of pool, while we watched the rugby match on the bar’s big screen.
Highs and Lows
My “high” was giving Danie a hug from everyone at home. My “low” was falling for the trick to ‘try anything at least once.’
Morning on the Warf
Christina and I passed the morning walking around the Victoria waterfront. We admired Table Mountain over a breakfast of yogurt, muesli (like granola), fruit and roobios tea. Afterward, we meandered around to see the iconic Clock Tower, the Craft Market and the Two Oceans Aquarium. The warf is a particularly lively place with shops, restaurants and activities all around. There were multiple singing group dressed in colorful, woven clothes singing in Xhosa or other African languages. The drums of music and buzz of people on the streets made it quite an exciting place to kill a few hours.
Tour and Constantia
After grabbing to-go lunches at Kauai, Christina and I hopped in Terrances’ (Christina’s friend from high school who studies here) car to get a local’s tour of the area with Sara, Brittany and Goldie. He took us the district called the Observatory, where Cape Town University is located and most students live. Then we passed through Claremont, where we were the other night, to Wynberg Park to see the sudden forest of pine trees spring out of nowhere. After passing the Kirstenboasch Botantical Gardens, we made our way further south to Constantia for a wine tasting at Groot Constantia. After a round of sipping whites, reds and desert wines, we toured the Groot Constantia Estate, which is also known as the birthplace of South African wine. Along the way, we spotted wild bamboos among the vines and observed the Cape Dutch architecture of the Cloete Cellar and Manor House, which were built in 1685. On the way home, Terrance insisted we stop at a local grocery store to try milk tart and biltong (like beef jerky). We didn’t complain.
Dinner with Danie
Despite a heavy study schedule, Danie came to Cape Town from Stellenbosch (about 40 mins northeast) to hang out and have dinner! (A good friend of mine through the Scarsdale school system, Danie moved back to South Africa in 10th grade with his family.) Somehow, he found his way right to Aton’s (Goldie’s cousin) house by his mentioning of the “tampon towers.” Catching up with him was as if we had never been apart and it was so nice to bridge the gap after two whole years apart! Later the whole group of us went to ‘India in Cape’ on Kloof Street for dinner. We split a round of nan and roti (breads) and lentil stews, while I had my first encounter with pineapple Fanta. Brittany and I ended up sharing two Chinese dishes at this Indian restaurant, but everyone passed around the dishes to taste a little of everything. Per Danie’s request we went out to Bob’s on Long Street for ‘vodkas with passion fruit’ and ‘Stroth shots.’ (Unfortunately, Danie had to go back to Stellenbosch to study for exams for the rest of the night.) The first drink was sweet and delicious, but the latter shot burned the whole way down. We settled our soar throats over a causal round of pool, while we watched the rugby match on the bar’s big screen.
Highs and Lows
My “high” was giving Danie a hug from everyone at home. My “low” was falling for the trick to ‘try anything at least once.’
Saturday, September 27, 2008
Day 30 – Table Mountain
Sept 27th
Table Mountain
I rallied Christina and Becca for a hike up Table Mountain in the morning. We got a taxi and per our driver’s suggestion we got dropped off at Platteklip Gorge. It was steeper than expected, but very manageable. I was totally in the zone on the way up and didn’t stop to rest, while Christina and Becca trailed along further back. They kept yelling jokes that my ass was “the little engine that could.” Due to previous rain showers, there were beautiful waterfalls and streams running over the rocks. Christina resisted temptation “to lick the rocks” even though we were all dehydrated from the night before. When we finally made it to the top, the view was a completely amazing panoramic view of Cape Town. You could see down to the southern tip of Cape Point, where the Indian and Atlantic oceans met. The top of the mountain plateau looks remarkably like a regular flat field. To add some fun to our adventure, we shamelessly turned cable car direction signs in the wrong direction. Hopefully, future tourists wont spend too much time walking in circles trying to find the way down. (Regardless, its pretty easy to gaze across the open plain and see where to go.) After some photo ops of us conquering the world, we headed to the café on top of Table Mountain for lunch: hearty beef stew and mango juice. After mentioning La Jolla (California), I found out Christina knows Aunt Indy, who goes to her mom Beata for acupuncture! What a small world? We obviously were thrilled at the discovery. Later, we took the cable cars down so we could check out how the floor spin in a circle while you’re onboard. Phil, our taxi driver, took us back to the harbor and reminded us to “give him a tinkle” if we needed any more transportation.
The Waterfront
Christina, Becca and I hung around the waterfront for a bit. We found Anna, a local tour guide who gave us some advice on where to eat and go out tonight. Then we headed to SanMarta for affortto (double espresso with vanilla ice cream) and a little down time to watch street performers. We warmed up under fleece blankets (Note: Africa can actually be very cold!) and watched a man doing the limbo under a pole of fire. Once we had refueled, we headed to the Victoria Warehouse to shop around. At YDE (like a Forever 21), I got this awesome black, pleather jacket that makes me look so bad ass and will keep me warm in the freezing weather. We stopped by Pick and Pay (supermarket chain) to get newspapers for class, and they made us buy the plastic bag at check out. I guess the green movement is even bigger in South Africa. We thought it was weird they also called chain “silver.”
Primi Plattti and Out
For dinner, we headed to an area called Claremont, which is 15 mins south of the harbor, to this warehouse/retro Italian place called Primi Platti. We all got different dished to share. I was really temped by the chicken liver appetizer, but instead went with Noli, which is tuna, pasta and napoleona sauce. All the pastas were wonderful, except that there was too much food to go around. We were absolutely stuffed. All the waiters there were so excited to meet Americans that they wanted our emails. I’m pretty sure they thought it they knew an American, it would be easier for them to get Visas to move to the States. I tried to break it to them easy that I couldn’t help too much, unless we got married. While we waited for our taxi, we happened into a nearby arcade to play some games. Obviously, I kicked ass at the car racing games. (Please, no jail jokes.) Afterwards, I convinced Brooks to be my bodyguard for the evening while the rest of the bunch headed back to the ship for the night. We headed back to Long Street to check out the scene. The best part of the night was finding a dark staircase that read “OPEN” in neon lights above. What else could we do then walk into this sketchy, dark hallway with music blaring? Once inside, we found round, vinyl beds that you see in the Austin Powers movie and 30 yr-old women and men dressed in 80s gear. It was pretty awkward breaking up their group vibe, but we just hopped in and danced away the night to classics like Madonna’s “Like A Virgin.”
Highs and Lows
My “high” was making it all the way to the top of Table Mountain in about one hour. My “low” was coming upon a crack den up the mysterious dark staircase.
Table Mountain
I rallied Christina and Becca for a hike up Table Mountain in the morning. We got a taxi and per our driver’s suggestion we got dropped off at Platteklip Gorge. It was steeper than expected, but very manageable. I was totally in the zone on the way up and didn’t stop to rest, while Christina and Becca trailed along further back. They kept yelling jokes that my ass was “the little engine that could.” Due to previous rain showers, there were beautiful waterfalls and streams running over the rocks. Christina resisted temptation “to lick the rocks” even though we were all dehydrated from the night before. When we finally made it to the top, the view was a completely amazing panoramic view of Cape Town. You could see down to the southern tip of Cape Point, where the Indian and Atlantic oceans met. The top of the mountain plateau looks remarkably like a regular flat field. To add some fun to our adventure, we shamelessly turned cable car direction signs in the wrong direction. Hopefully, future tourists wont spend too much time walking in circles trying to find the way down. (Regardless, its pretty easy to gaze across the open plain and see where to go.) After some photo ops of us conquering the world, we headed to the café on top of Table Mountain for lunch: hearty beef stew and mango juice. After mentioning La Jolla (California), I found out Christina knows Aunt Indy, who goes to her mom Beata for acupuncture! What a small world? We obviously were thrilled at the discovery. Later, we took the cable cars down so we could check out how the floor spin in a circle while you’re onboard. Phil, our taxi driver, took us back to the harbor and reminded us to “give him a tinkle” if we needed any more transportation.
The Waterfront
Christina, Becca and I hung around the waterfront for a bit. We found Anna, a local tour guide who gave us some advice on where to eat and go out tonight. Then we headed to SanMarta for affortto (double espresso with vanilla ice cream) and a little down time to watch street performers. We warmed up under fleece blankets (Note: Africa can actually be very cold!) and watched a man doing the limbo under a pole of fire. Once we had refueled, we headed to the Victoria Warehouse to shop around. At YDE (like a Forever 21), I got this awesome black, pleather jacket that makes me look so bad ass and will keep me warm in the freezing weather. We stopped by Pick and Pay (supermarket chain) to get newspapers for class, and they made us buy the plastic bag at check out. I guess the green movement is even bigger in South Africa. We thought it was weird they also called chain “silver.”
Primi Plattti and Out
For dinner, we headed to an area called Claremont, which is 15 mins south of the harbor, to this warehouse/retro Italian place called Primi Platti. We all got different dished to share. I was really temped by the chicken liver appetizer, but instead went with Noli, which is tuna, pasta and napoleona sauce. All the pastas were wonderful, except that there was too much food to go around. We were absolutely stuffed. All the waiters there were so excited to meet Americans that they wanted our emails. I’m pretty sure they thought it they knew an American, it would be easier for them to get Visas to move to the States. I tried to break it to them easy that I couldn’t help too much, unless we got married. While we waited for our taxi, we happened into a nearby arcade to play some games. Obviously, I kicked ass at the car racing games. (Please, no jail jokes.) Afterwards, I convinced Brooks to be my bodyguard for the evening while the rest of the bunch headed back to the ship for the night. We headed back to Long Street to check out the scene. The best part of the night was finding a dark staircase that read “OPEN” in neon lights above. What else could we do then walk into this sketchy, dark hallway with music blaring? Once inside, we found round, vinyl beds that you see in the Austin Powers movie and 30 yr-old women and men dressed in 80s gear. It was pretty awkward breaking up their group vibe, but we just hopped in and danced away the night to classics like Madonna’s “Like A Virgin.”
Highs and Lows
My “high” was making it all the way to the top of Table Mountain in about one hour. My “low” was coming upon a crack den up the mysterious dark staircase.
Friday, September 26, 2008
Day 29 – Cape Town, South Africa
Sept 26th
Walking around town
We landed in the beautiful, colonial Victoria and Alfred Waterfront early in the morning. After disembarking, Becca and I headed straight for Long Street, which we heard was the main boulevard through town. Along the way, we came upon Cape Town Station (main train station) that had a mini market springing up along the outside. Most of the goods looked like they had “fallen off a truck” or otherwise been stolen. We looked from Christina’s stolen cell phone, but had no luck. From there we walked north through Green Square Market to find Sipho, an amicable tourist information guide. We chatted with him about the current government turnover and past apartheid, while he walked us to Long Street to his favorite restaurant Mama Africa. Overall, he felt positive about post-apartheid changes since he could now talk to white people and walk wherever he liked, but he was still apprehensive because developing middle class of successful blacks were not sharing their prosperity with others. He believed that for the most part only those well-connected blacks were truly benefiting at this stage.
Addis in Cape
Since Mama Africa was not open, the owners directed us to Addis in Cape, their favorite Ethiopian restaurant on Church Street. We walked into this Arabian oasis with ornate, gold embroidered umbrellas covering the ceiling with dark wood tables and reclining chair scattered about. Our waitress Charity did her best to explain the menu and meal process. We ended up ordering two half-and-half dishes to share. We ended up with a selection of doro wot (chicken stew), yegeb alic-something (spicy lentil dish), tibs (beef with onions) and misir wot (lamb stew). After Charity brought around a pot and kettle to wash our hands with warm water, she brought out this white, foamy bread rolled up like a towel. With pieces of the foam bread in our right hand, she instructed us to grab the food using the bread since there were no utensils. It was the most interesting meal I had the whole time, and it was absolutely delicious. The flavors were milder than what we expect in India, but their use of coriander, ginger, garlic and turmeric was very evident.
District Six
After lunch, Christina and I went on a township tour. Along the way to the District 6 Museum, we saw the Castle of Good Hope (oldest building in Cape Town), the Groote Schuur Hospital (world’s first heart transplant in 1967) and a famously, unfinished raised-highway (architect killed himself). When pulling up to the District 6 Museum, we saw the most-notorious, apartheid prison that consistently drove prisoners insane from torture. Essentially, the museum commemorated the area of district six and its heritage in apartheid. In 1966, District Six was declared a “White Group Area” by the then-ruling National Party. Due to orders for ‘slum clearance,’ all buildings except religious ones were demolished, forcing 150,000 people (mostly coloureds or blacks) from their homes to the Cape Flats. A large part of history and Cape Town culture was destroyed and residents are just today trying to bring pieces of it together to commemorate it in the museum. Currently, the area is still mostly undeveloped and can easily be spotted from the top of Table Mountain as the grassy area in the middle of the city.
Townships (slums)
From there, we visited Langa, the oldest township in Cape Town. Established in 1901, farm inhabitants resettled in Langa under the belief they posed health threats to the city that was recovering from the bubonic plague. It mostly consisted of governmentally organized housing, which resulted in unpainted, cinder-block square houses. They were all made of uniform size and shape regardless of family size. Since the first residents rented the houses from the government, they were not allowed to make extensions, resulting in many bedroom shacks that spring up along side the road or back yards. While in the area, we visited Gugu s’Thebe Arts and Culture Centre, which was established in 1926 and is a vibrant cultural center that educates residents on handicraft skills. They teach Langa residents to make pottery, paintings, sculptures and figurines from anything they can find (which is mostly items we would consider trash) to sell to tourists and visitors. From Langa, we headed to Gugulethu or “Gugs,” which was established in the 1950s to house migrant workers from the Eastern Cape. Men were forced to leave their families and live in cramped male-only hostels at first. When families arrived later, informal settlements and shacks built up haphazardly. As we walked down the sidewalks, there was a pungent smell of braii (Afrikaans for BBQ) and meat as men cut and sold whole pigs and cows on the sidewalk. On our way out of Gugulethu, we saw the Amy Biehl Memorial (commemorates white student who worked against apartheid but was victim of white-hate crime) and the Gugulethu Seven Memorial (commemorates seven shot dead by white soldiers).
Birthdays!
Since it was Becca’s 20th birthday, we all headed out for shooters and traditional South African drinks. While walking along Long Street, we choose Café Mojito for dinner due to its outdoor seating that would allow us to celebrate without disturbing too many people. The first round of ‘springbok’ shooters was in honor of Becca of course. (Springbok is the national animal of South Africa.) While we swapped bites of Hawaiian burgers and Caribbean chicken nachos, we had a passerby take a photo. The man, whose name was Paka, turned out to be a allegedly, famous actor in South Africa. None of us really knew if he was telling the truth, but apparently his show is called ‘Criminal Intent’ on channel 1 on Thursdays at 8PM. He also just finished some American movie called Vanilla Gorilla. I think it was all a load of crap, but I got him to buy the birthday girl and I drinks as well as pay for half my meal. After enough time laughing and chatting about, we crossed the street to dance at Fiction for a few hours. When Goldie showed up, her cousin Aton (who lives in South Africa) took us to another club called Mercury for a feel of the techno scene before heading back to the ship.
Highs and Lows
My “high” was seeing a cow sacrificed on the lawn of a Gugulethu resident. My “low” was not finding Mama Africa open after Sipho’s enthusiasm for the food.
Walking around town
We landed in the beautiful, colonial Victoria and Alfred Waterfront early in the morning. After disembarking, Becca and I headed straight for Long Street, which we heard was the main boulevard through town. Along the way, we came upon Cape Town Station (main train station) that had a mini market springing up along the outside. Most of the goods looked like they had “fallen off a truck” or otherwise been stolen. We looked from Christina’s stolen cell phone, but had no luck. From there we walked north through Green Square Market to find Sipho, an amicable tourist information guide. We chatted with him about the current government turnover and past apartheid, while he walked us to Long Street to his favorite restaurant Mama Africa. Overall, he felt positive about post-apartheid changes since he could now talk to white people and walk wherever he liked, but he was still apprehensive because developing middle class of successful blacks were not sharing their prosperity with others. He believed that for the most part only those well-connected blacks were truly benefiting at this stage.
Addis in Cape
Since Mama Africa was not open, the owners directed us to Addis in Cape, their favorite Ethiopian restaurant on Church Street. We walked into this Arabian oasis with ornate, gold embroidered umbrellas covering the ceiling with dark wood tables and reclining chair scattered about. Our waitress Charity did her best to explain the menu and meal process. We ended up ordering two half-and-half dishes to share. We ended up with a selection of doro wot (chicken stew), yegeb alic-something (spicy lentil dish), tibs (beef with onions) and misir wot (lamb stew). After Charity brought around a pot and kettle to wash our hands with warm water, she brought out this white, foamy bread rolled up like a towel. With pieces of the foam bread in our right hand, she instructed us to grab the food using the bread since there were no utensils. It was the most interesting meal I had the whole time, and it was absolutely delicious. The flavors were milder than what we expect in India, but their use of coriander, ginger, garlic and turmeric was very evident.
District Six
After lunch, Christina and I went on a township tour. Along the way to the District 6 Museum, we saw the Castle of Good Hope (oldest building in Cape Town), the Groote Schuur Hospital (world’s first heart transplant in 1967) and a famously, unfinished raised-highway (architect killed himself). When pulling up to the District 6 Museum, we saw the most-notorious, apartheid prison that consistently drove prisoners insane from torture. Essentially, the museum commemorated the area of district six and its heritage in apartheid. In 1966, District Six was declared a “White Group Area” by the then-ruling National Party. Due to orders for ‘slum clearance,’ all buildings except religious ones were demolished, forcing 150,000 people (mostly coloureds or blacks) from their homes to the Cape Flats. A large part of history and Cape Town culture was destroyed and residents are just today trying to bring pieces of it together to commemorate it in the museum. Currently, the area is still mostly undeveloped and can easily be spotted from the top of Table Mountain as the grassy area in the middle of the city.
Townships (slums)
From there, we visited Langa, the oldest township in Cape Town. Established in 1901, farm inhabitants resettled in Langa under the belief they posed health threats to the city that was recovering from the bubonic plague. It mostly consisted of governmentally organized housing, which resulted in unpainted, cinder-block square houses. They were all made of uniform size and shape regardless of family size. Since the first residents rented the houses from the government, they were not allowed to make extensions, resulting in many bedroom shacks that spring up along side the road or back yards. While in the area, we visited Gugu s’Thebe Arts and Culture Centre, which was established in 1926 and is a vibrant cultural center that educates residents on handicraft skills. They teach Langa residents to make pottery, paintings, sculptures and figurines from anything they can find (which is mostly items we would consider trash) to sell to tourists and visitors. From Langa, we headed to Gugulethu or “Gugs,” which was established in the 1950s to house migrant workers from the Eastern Cape. Men were forced to leave their families and live in cramped male-only hostels at first. When families arrived later, informal settlements and shacks built up haphazardly. As we walked down the sidewalks, there was a pungent smell of braii (Afrikaans for BBQ) and meat as men cut and sold whole pigs and cows on the sidewalk. On our way out of Gugulethu, we saw the Amy Biehl Memorial (commemorates white student who worked against apartheid but was victim of white-hate crime) and the Gugulethu Seven Memorial (commemorates seven shot dead by white soldiers).
Birthdays!
Since it was Becca’s 20th birthday, we all headed out for shooters and traditional South African drinks. While walking along Long Street, we choose Café Mojito for dinner due to its outdoor seating that would allow us to celebrate without disturbing too many people. The first round of ‘springbok’ shooters was in honor of Becca of course. (Springbok is the national animal of South Africa.) While we swapped bites of Hawaiian burgers and Caribbean chicken nachos, we had a passerby take a photo. The man, whose name was Paka, turned out to be a allegedly, famous actor in South Africa. None of us really knew if he was telling the truth, but apparently his show is called ‘Criminal Intent’ on channel 1 on Thursdays at 8PM. He also just finished some American movie called Vanilla Gorilla. I think it was all a load of crap, but I got him to buy the birthday girl and I drinks as well as pay for half my meal. After enough time laughing and chatting about, we crossed the street to dance at Fiction for a few hours. When Goldie showed up, her cousin Aton (who lives in South Africa) took us to another club called Mercury for a feel of the techno scene before heading back to the ship.
Highs and Lows
My “high” was seeing a cow sacrificed on the lawn of a Gugulethu resident. My “low” was not finding Mama Africa open after Sipho’s enthusiasm for the food.
Thursday, September 25, 2008
Day 28 – Water and Waves
Sept 25th
Logistical Pre-port
We arrive tomorrow at 8AM. We were heavily warned about the high crime rate in South Africa. Luckily, I won’t be near Johannesburg, where crime is supposed to be the worst. They explained Cape Town as “a 1st world harbor with 3rd world conditions on the outside,” we are supposed to be very conscious of traveling in and outside the city. Almost 35% of the population has HIV, so the medical staff was pretty adamant that we not have sex with anyone. Other than that, they just told us to be careful. We all can’t wait for South Africa…
Highs and Lows
My “high” was waking up super skinny from last night’s unfortunate colonoscopy. My “low” was still suffering the after affects of our serious misadventure. Never, never again.
Logistical Pre-port
We arrive tomorrow at 8AM. We were heavily warned about the high crime rate in South Africa. Luckily, I won’t be near Johannesburg, where crime is supposed to be the worst. They explained Cape Town as “a 1st world harbor with 3rd world conditions on the outside,” we are supposed to be very conscious of traveling in and outside the city. Almost 35% of the population has HIV, so the medical staff was pretty adamant that we not have sex with anyone. Other than that, they just told us to be careful. We all can’t wait for South Africa…
Highs and Lows
My “high” was waking up super skinny from last night’s unfortunate colonoscopy. My “low” was still suffering the after affects of our serious misadventure. Never, never again.
Wednesday, September 24, 2008
Day 27 – Ship Time
Sept 24th
I spent the day in classes or catching up on readings and assignments.
Highs and Lows
My “high” was testing out Franie’s theory that !Nara buds make you high. My “low” was experiencing “liquid shits” for 24 hours after I couldn’t throw up anymore.
I spent the day in classes or catching up on readings and assignments.
Highs and Lows
My “high” was testing out Franie’s theory that !Nara buds make you high. My “low” was experiencing “liquid shits” for 24 hours after I couldn’t throw up anymore.
Tuesday, September 23, 2008
Day 26 – Kuiseb Delta
Sept 23rd
Sand Dune tour
Before setting off on our quad adventure, Franie, our male tour guide, explained how the delta came into being, why the delta developed and what the area was like before the “sea of sand” succeeded to cross the river delta. The prehistoric Kuiseb Delta is older than the Namib Desert (the oldest desert in the world). After each inland rainfall, the delta floods with water, moving over the sand dunes and mixing into the salt-water sea. Thus, the area has a good portion of vegetation that supports both human and animal life. When the rain stops, the sand blows back over the delta and covers everything in sand once again. Later, we saw evidence of this from the leafy stems peeking out of dunes that were actually completely covered trees. Geared in ‘Speedracer’ white helmets and protective goggles, we hopped on our quad bikes and headed off into the Namib Desert. Starting off on small dunes, Barbara, Marg and I (the inexperienced) quickly got a feel for the bikes. Even while we were just getting comfortable sliding down steeper sand cliffs, the others joyously made donuts in the sand nearby. After some practice, Franie took us off into the delta to show us the yellow dunes up close. All the dunes had a beautiful, soft red color caused by quartz pieces that are laced throughout. As we got further into the river delta, smaller and wilder turns appeared that caused each of us to go flying and leaping around curves and turns. At one point, I missed a turn completely and spot out onto the bumpy tuffs of rock and bushes. I was holding on for dear life, until it dawned on me I was griping the gas pedal. After a moment of recovery in my cloud of dust, I could heard Barbara and Marg sprinting after me to check if I was okay. Luckily we were stuck at the pack of the pack, so non of the experienced drivers could sit and laugh. Our final off-roading count was me – 1, Marg – 4 and Barabara – 9.
Meeting a Topnaar
During our tour, Franie took us to meet Charlie, a Topnaar (local inhabitants from a tribe of the Khoi-Khoin) and he shared with us the seeds of the !Nara plant, which you crack open with your teeth and eat the inside. The !Nara plant (the ‘!’ is pronounced as a throat click in the Xhosa language) is a green spiky ball connected by long green, thorny vines. The ripe inside is a bright yellow dotted with black seeds that tasted something like a vanilla almond. Charlie also gave us some fruit leather they make from !Nara to eat during the winter. They place the green balls under the top layer of sand to ripen in the sun, then remove the yellow inside fruit of the plant to boil, mash and push through a strainer. Finally, they pound the mush together and form it into a strip to dry. Franie shared with us a story of his friend who eat the soft buds of the plant and got high. Upon hearing that, we began harvesting like migrant workers to bring ziplock bags full to sell to students back on the ship. Charlie was also kind enough to also let us tour his Topnaar midden (living places), what he eats (which is almost exclusively the !Nara plant) and what tools he uses in everyday life. After meeting Charlie, Franie took us to meet a small gathering of other Topnaar. One of them named Jacky sold self-taught artwork to Franie’s tour groups. He made beautiful pictures of desert animals and dunes. We got to play with the most adorable Topnaar children and share with them some !Nara seeds for a snack. One little girl wore an adorable, cotton Powerpuff Girls t-shirt. They don’t have electricity in the middle of the desert, so I doubt she has seen the show.
Things from the past
After continuing on our adventure, Franie took us to a dried river valley with 500 year-old, petrified animal and Topnaar tracks. We saw tracks and prints from elephant, rhino, buffalo, eland, onyx, kudu, giraffe, baboon, cheetah, steenbok and different human prints. You could actually see the difference between narrow feet from San (Bushman) people and wider feet from Topnaar (Sand) people. Their feet evolved to be wider to make walking up sand dunes easier. While driving around the delta we also got to see gazelle, lizards and beetles. Though it is home to jackal, elephant, oryx, dune lark and snakes, we didn’t catch any of them on our trip. Thankfully, we never ran into a Black Mamba, which is the most aggressive snack in the world. Along our adventure, we stopped to experience the “roaring dunes.” Essentially, when you walk up dunes or slide down them on your butt, there is a loud tuba sound that grants the name the “roaring dunes.” Franie explained that it is caused by the compression of air between the sand bits. We also came across centuries-old ostrich eggshells, pottery and human skeletons stuck in the sand for which the Namibian coast is named the “Skeleton Coast.” I actually got to hold a 600-year-old human skeleton baby in my hands. Pretty creepy.
Rest of the Day
After a grimy day on the dunes, we headed to Crazy Mama’s to refuel over lunch. I discovered beer shanty, which is carbonated lemonade and beer, which paired nicely with a banana and beacon pizza. (Seriously, it was really good.) After walking around a bit to spend our last few Namibian dollars, we showered and spent the night catching up with friends about our Namibian adventures in port.
Highs and Lows
My “high” was having a crazy local challenge me to a dual when he wagged his finger at me and pointed to an advertisement for a gun store. My “low” was coming around a dune bend to find Goldie sprawled under her overturned quad bike. (Thankfully, she lives.)
Sand Dune tour
Before setting off on our quad adventure, Franie, our male tour guide, explained how the delta came into being, why the delta developed and what the area was like before the “sea of sand” succeeded to cross the river delta. The prehistoric Kuiseb Delta is older than the Namib Desert (the oldest desert in the world). After each inland rainfall, the delta floods with water, moving over the sand dunes and mixing into the salt-water sea. Thus, the area has a good portion of vegetation that supports both human and animal life. When the rain stops, the sand blows back over the delta and covers everything in sand once again. Later, we saw evidence of this from the leafy stems peeking out of dunes that were actually completely covered trees. Geared in ‘Speedracer’ white helmets and protective goggles, we hopped on our quad bikes and headed off into the Namib Desert. Starting off on small dunes, Barbara, Marg and I (the inexperienced) quickly got a feel for the bikes. Even while we were just getting comfortable sliding down steeper sand cliffs, the others joyously made donuts in the sand nearby. After some practice, Franie took us off into the delta to show us the yellow dunes up close. All the dunes had a beautiful, soft red color caused by quartz pieces that are laced throughout. As we got further into the river delta, smaller and wilder turns appeared that caused each of us to go flying and leaping around curves and turns. At one point, I missed a turn completely and spot out onto the bumpy tuffs of rock and bushes. I was holding on for dear life, until it dawned on me I was griping the gas pedal. After a moment of recovery in my cloud of dust, I could heard Barbara and Marg sprinting after me to check if I was okay. Luckily we were stuck at the pack of the pack, so non of the experienced drivers could sit and laugh. Our final off-roading count was me – 1, Marg – 4 and Barabara – 9.
Meeting a Topnaar
During our tour, Franie took us to meet Charlie, a Topnaar (local inhabitants from a tribe of the Khoi-Khoin) and he shared with us the seeds of the !Nara plant, which you crack open with your teeth and eat the inside. The !Nara plant (the ‘!’ is pronounced as a throat click in the Xhosa language) is a green spiky ball connected by long green, thorny vines. The ripe inside is a bright yellow dotted with black seeds that tasted something like a vanilla almond. Charlie also gave us some fruit leather they make from !Nara to eat during the winter. They place the green balls under the top layer of sand to ripen in the sun, then remove the yellow inside fruit of the plant to boil, mash and push through a strainer. Finally, they pound the mush together and form it into a strip to dry. Franie shared with us a story of his friend who eat the soft buds of the plant and got high. Upon hearing that, we began harvesting like migrant workers to bring ziplock bags full to sell to students back on the ship. Charlie was also kind enough to also let us tour his Topnaar midden (living places), what he eats (which is almost exclusively the !Nara plant) and what tools he uses in everyday life. After meeting Charlie, Franie took us to meet a small gathering of other Topnaar. One of them named Jacky sold self-taught artwork to Franie’s tour groups. He made beautiful pictures of desert animals and dunes. We got to play with the most adorable Topnaar children and share with them some !Nara seeds for a snack. One little girl wore an adorable, cotton Powerpuff Girls t-shirt. They don’t have electricity in the middle of the desert, so I doubt she has seen the show.
Things from the past
After continuing on our adventure, Franie took us to a dried river valley with 500 year-old, petrified animal and Topnaar tracks. We saw tracks and prints from elephant, rhino, buffalo, eland, onyx, kudu, giraffe, baboon, cheetah, steenbok and different human prints. You could actually see the difference between narrow feet from San (Bushman) people and wider feet from Topnaar (Sand) people. Their feet evolved to be wider to make walking up sand dunes easier. While driving around the delta we also got to see gazelle, lizards and beetles. Though it is home to jackal, elephant, oryx, dune lark and snakes, we didn’t catch any of them on our trip. Thankfully, we never ran into a Black Mamba, which is the most aggressive snack in the world. Along our adventure, we stopped to experience the “roaring dunes.” Essentially, when you walk up dunes or slide down them on your butt, there is a loud tuba sound that grants the name the “roaring dunes.” Franie explained that it is caused by the compression of air between the sand bits. We also came across centuries-old ostrich eggshells, pottery and human skeletons stuck in the sand for which the Namibian coast is named the “Skeleton Coast.” I actually got to hold a 600-year-old human skeleton baby in my hands. Pretty creepy.
Rest of the Day
After a grimy day on the dunes, we headed to Crazy Mama’s to refuel over lunch. I discovered beer shanty, which is carbonated lemonade and beer, which paired nicely with a banana and beacon pizza. (Seriously, it was really good.) After walking around a bit to spend our last few Namibian dollars, we showered and spent the night catching up with friends about our Namibian adventures in port.
Highs and Lows
My “high” was having a crazy local challenge me to a dual when he wagged his finger at me and pointed to an advertisement for a gun store. My “low” was coming around a dune bend to find Goldie sprawled under her overturned quad bike. (Thankfully, she lives.)
Monday, September 22, 2008
Day 25 – Swakopmund, Namibia
Sept 22nd
‘Swanky Mund’ for the day
Papa Jonah woke us up at 9AM to get our complementary breakfast, which turned into another feast. Then we spent the morning meandering through the town and shops, which included a traditional rug weaving store where workers woven things in the middle of the floor. In Peter’s Antiques we found goodies like voodoo-protected ostrich shells, zebra skin rugs and assorted wooden masks that reminded me of being murdered for some reason. There were also a slew of safari shops, where you could buy kakis outfits with more pockets than people have things to put in them. Despite all these wonderfully ‘traditional’ African stores, the majority of the town would make you think you were actually in Germany. Since Swakopmund was colonized by Germany in the 17th century, it continues to be a German resort town today. All the architecture and names of hotels and restaurants give no inclination at all that you are outside Europe. Most of the other tourists were Germans and almost everyone spoke German. Unfortunately, the only word I know in German is shiza, which means ‘shit,’ so it wasn’t very helpful.
Lunch and Camels
For lunch, we happened upon a burger joint and decided to try our luck. It turned out to have the most amazing burger I had ever had in my entire life. It was juicy and fell apart in your mouth, but still a little crispy on the outside with the perfect buttery/toasted bun. Absolutely perfect. It’s amazing how fresh food tastes outside the United States. Afterward I washed it down with Goldie’s warm beer from last night by shot gunning it outside. From there we headed to a beach market that had more of the same African crafts. Tierney and I decided to head 12km east of Swakopmund to a camel farm for the rest of the afternoon. When we got there, the woman who owned the place insisted we wear turbans, while she showed us the tortoise, zebra and chickens around the farm. I quickly obliged before our camel ride through the desert. It was a rather uncomfortable and bumpy ride, still great fun in the process.
Last night in Namibia
We headed back to Walvis Bay to meet up at BonAroma for our final meal. We each got some sort of meat to share and experiment. I got sirloin with chocolate chili sauce, just because it had the word “chocolate” in the name. (Obviously.) We left with a whole package of left over meat, which I insisted we share with a starving African. (Note: I didn’t see one homeless person in Namibia.) From there we headed to Champs, a dance club nearby, and took over the dance floor since there was not a single person on it. I handed our meat to the door guard on the way in and I think he was delighted with his steak and calamari snack. After dancing for a few hours, we decided to try a new disco. A local named JP strongly discouraged us from going to Rio Copa a reggae/salsa club that we had heard about. He explained, “It wasn’t appropriate for us,” meaning white people. We decided to take our chances and go anyway. It was a little awkward walking into the club being the only whites, but we Bee-lined it straight for the dance floor and let loose. No one seemed to mind, and the locals even got excited that we brought a new buzz to the floor. At one point, a woman named Ivy came up and started dancing with me and teaching us new moves. Then a mix of locals and us formed a mini circle and took turns breaking loose. Some of the things I saw people do I really didn’t know was possible on a dance floor. It was the absolutely best way to end our time in Namibia. On our way back to the ship, Cassidy announced we were playing “queen of the sidewalk” and most of us ended up in the dust next to the road. I seriously think I now have the ‘poo worm’ that supposedly burrows into your skin and lays eggs, but we’ll have to see in a few weeks.
Highs and Lows
My “high” was realizing the reason they include tomato slices at breakfast each morning is because it is actually a fruit. My “low” was trying to figure out whether my dance partner Ivy was a lesbian when she first asked me to dance.
‘Swanky Mund’ for the day
Papa Jonah woke us up at 9AM to get our complementary breakfast, which turned into another feast. Then we spent the morning meandering through the town and shops, which included a traditional rug weaving store where workers woven things in the middle of the floor. In Peter’s Antiques we found goodies like voodoo-protected ostrich shells, zebra skin rugs and assorted wooden masks that reminded me of being murdered for some reason. There were also a slew of safari shops, where you could buy kakis outfits with more pockets than people have things to put in them. Despite all these wonderfully ‘traditional’ African stores, the majority of the town would make you think you were actually in Germany. Since Swakopmund was colonized by Germany in the 17th century, it continues to be a German resort town today. All the architecture and names of hotels and restaurants give no inclination at all that you are outside Europe. Most of the other tourists were Germans and almost everyone spoke German. Unfortunately, the only word I know in German is shiza, which means ‘shit,’ so it wasn’t very helpful.
Lunch and Camels
For lunch, we happened upon a burger joint and decided to try our luck. It turned out to have the most amazing burger I had ever had in my entire life. It was juicy and fell apart in your mouth, but still a little crispy on the outside with the perfect buttery/toasted bun. Absolutely perfect. It’s amazing how fresh food tastes outside the United States. Afterward I washed it down with Goldie’s warm beer from last night by shot gunning it outside. From there we headed to a beach market that had more of the same African crafts. Tierney and I decided to head 12km east of Swakopmund to a camel farm for the rest of the afternoon. When we got there, the woman who owned the place insisted we wear turbans, while she showed us the tortoise, zebra and chickens around the farm. I quickly obliged before our camel ride through the desert. It was a rather uncomfortable and bumpy ride, still great fun in the process.
Last night in Namibia
We headed back to Walvis Bay to meet up at BonAroma for our final meal. We each got some sort of meat to share and experiment. I got sirloin with chocolate chili sauce, just because it had the word “chocolate” in the name. (Obviously.) We left with a whole package of left over meat, which I insisted we share with a starving African. (Note: I didn’t see one homeless person in Namibia.) From there we headed to Champs, a dance club nearby, and took over the dance floor since there was not a single person on it. I handed our meat to the door guard on the way in and I think he was delighted with his steak and calamari snack. After dancing for a few hours, we decided to try a new disco. A local named JP strongly discouraged us from going to Rio Copa a reggae/salsa club that we had heard about. He explained, “It wasn’t appropriate for us,” meaning white people. We decided to take our chances and go anyway. It was a little awkward walking into the club being the only whites, but we Bee-lined it straight for the dance floor and let loose. No one seemed to mind, and the locals even got excited that we brought a new buzz to the floor. At one point, a woman named Ivy came up and started dancing with me and teaching us new moves. Then a mix of locals and us formed a mini circle and took turns breaking loose. Some of the things I saw people do I really didn’t know was possible on a dance floor. It was the absolutely best way to end our time in Namibia. On our way back to the ship, Cassidy announced we were playing “queen of the sidewalk” and most of us ended up in the dust next to the road. I seriously think I now have the ‘poo worm’ that supposedly burrows into your skin and lays eggs, but we’ll have to see in a few weeks.
Highs and Lows
My “high” was realizing the reason they include tomato slices at breakfast each morning is because it is actually a fruit. My “low” was trying to figure out whether my dance partner Ivy was a lesbian when she first asked me to dance.
Sunday, September 21, 2008
Day 24 – Sea, Salt and Sand
Sept 21st
Sea, Salt and Sand
I got up at 8AM for a tour of the area. First we headed to Walvis Bay lagoon to try and spot brightly-colored flamingos and rare white pelicans. The few we saw were sequestered far off in the distance. We briefly saw Bird Island’s wooden platforms, which were erected to collect guano for fertilizer. That’s when I knew what gift I was bringing home. Then we headed to Namibian salt mining operations, which are the largest in the world. Since the facilities were closed, we admired the salt fields, which are flooded with water and turn a glorious pink before the salt crystallizes out. After we were supposed to head to an Oyster farm to taste glorified Namibian oysters, but these facilities were also closed on Sunday. The morning looked pretty grim as we were all cranky from lack of sleep and hung overs. The freezing morning fog did nothing to lift our spirits. (Africa was much colder than anticipated! I guess because it was their Fall.) The last stop was Dune 7 where they gave us an hour to climb the highest dune in the area or to relax among the palm trees and picnic tables. (I disappointingly found out there is no Dune 5 or Dune 6. It is named because it is 7km from the post office.) It took us a good 15 mins to climb since the sand acted like a giant stair stepper. Every two steps you take, you slide one step back. We took numerous breaks along the way, but the view from the top was incredible. You could see for miles across the Namib desert. After running, rolling and sliding down, we headed back to the boat.
Sand boarding
After lunch, a group of us meet up with Wayne, a sand boarding instructor that came to get us at the harbor. He shuttled us to Dune 7 and unloaded all the snowboarding gear that would soon become our sand boarding experience. He and Marcus rode us up to the top of the dune via quad bikes (thank god) and we made our way down ourselves. Despite my inexperience snowboarding or sand boarding, I quickly felt comfortable making my way straight down the steep slope. I loved every min of it, except maybe when Goldie and I decided to make a sled out of a board and ride down together. With our feet on the sides of the board to steady us, we ended up spraying sand all over ourselves and fully engulfing our ears, eyes, mouths and hair with sand. The best way to explain it is as Becca put it “We turned to see a giant sand ball flying down the hill… then we realized it was you guys and weren’t surprised.” Right after our misadventure, Christina showed us up by daintily sliding down without any flying sand. In the meantime, we snacked on juice and fruit courtesy of Wayne, while Barbara kidnapped an adorable little boy named DeeDee who had been playing in the sand. Goldie and I let him ride our “sled” but only with proper instruction and warning so he wouldn’t suffer our same fate. By the end of the day, Tierney explained the experience best as “walking after sand boarding is like exfoliating your vagina.” After a tiring afternoon, we headed back to the ship to clean up for dinner.
Swakopmund at Night
Sara, Goldie, Cassidy and I squeezed into a clown car that at final count unbelievably held 10 SAS students. After arriving at Hotel Europa in Swakopmund, which is a beach town about 35 mins North of Walvis Bay, we headed to Kuckis Pub for dinner. I had ostrich with monkey gland sauce (my new fav condiment). We then dropped our stuff off in the hotel (since we finally ran into Brit who had the key from the night before) and prepped for a night out. Just by wandering the streets, we easily found the bars, which attract SAS students like moths to a flame. We went to ‘Threesome’ an upstairs bar that reminded me of a Caribbean oasis. We hung out there until 11PM when they ended alcohol service and closed the place (since it was Sunday). Unsure what to do with ourselves, most SAS kids mingled in the streets before someone decided to start a beach party. Thus, we all headed to the gas station for beer and firewood and headed to the beach. While I had a great time warming up next to the fire, the Cali kids keep insisting it was “too high school” for them. We made it safely back to our German cottage hotel by 4PM to stuff four of us in one large bed for the night.
Highs and Lows
My “high” was when Goldie and I made our own little sandstorm. My “low” was watching drunk kids stumble around a huge bonfire (thankfully no one fell in).
Sea, Salt and Sand
I got up at 8AM for a tour of the area. First we headed to Walvis Bay lagoon to try and spot brightly-colored flamingos and rare white pelicans. The few we saw were sequestered far off in the distance. We briefly saw Bird Island’s wooden platforms, which were erected to collect guano for fertilizer. That’s when I knew what gift I was bringing home. Then we headed to Namibian salt mining operations, which are the largest in the world. Since the facilities were closed, we admired the salt fields, which are flooded with water and turn a glorious pink before the salt crystallizes out. After we were supposed to head to an Oyster farm to taste glorified Namibian oysters, but these facilities were also closed on Sunday. The morning looked pretty grim as we were all cranky from lack of sleep and hung overs. The freezing morning fog did nothing to lift our spirits. (Africa was much colder than anticipated! I guess because it was their Fall.) The last stop was Dune 7 where they gave us an hour to climb the highest dune in the area or to relax among the palm trees and picnic tables. (I disappointingly found out there is no Dune 5 or Dune 6. It is named because it is 7km from the post office.) It took us a good 15 mins to climb since the sand acted like a giant stair stepper. Every two steps you take, you slide one step back. We took numerous breaks along the way, but the view from the top was incredible. You could see for miles across the Namib desert. After running, rolling and sliding down, we headed back to the boat.
Sand boarding
After lunch, a group of us meet up with Wayne, a sand boarding instructor that came to get us at the harbor. He shuttled us to Dune 7 and unloaded all the snowboarding gear that would soon become our sand boarding experience. He and Marcus rode us up to the top of the dune via quad bikes (thank god) and we made our way down ourselves. Despite my inexperience snowboarding or sand boarding, I quickly felt comfortable making my way straight down the steep slope. I loved every min of it, except maybe when Goldie and I decided to make a sled out of a board and ride down together. With our feet on the sides of the board to steady us, we ended up spraying sand all over ourselves and fully engulfing our ears, eyes, mouths and hair with sand. The best way to explain it is as Becca put it “We turned to see a giant sand ball flying down the hill… then we realized it was you guys and weren’t surprised.” Right after our misadventure, Christina showed us up by daintily sliding down without any flying sand. In the meantime, we snacked on juice and fruit courtesy of Wayne, while Barbara kidnapped an adorable little boy named DeeDee who had been playing in the sand. Goldie and I let him ride our “sled” but only with proper instruction and warning so he wouldn’t suffer our same fate. By the end of the day, Tierney explained the experience best as “walking after sand boarding is like exfoliating your vagina.” After a tiring afternoon, we headed back to the ship to clean up for dinner.
Swakopmund at Night
Sara, Goldie, Cassidy and I squeezed into a clown car that at final count unbelievably held 10 SAS students. After arriving at Hotel Europa in Swakopmund, which is a beach town about 35 mins North of Walvis Bay, we headed to Kuckis Pub for dinner. I had ostrich with monkey gland sauce (my new fav condiment). We then dropped our stuff off in the hotel (since we finally ran into Brit who had the key from the night before) and prepped for a night out. Just by wandering the streets, we easily found the bars, which attract SAS students like moths to a flame. We went to ‘Threesome’ an upstairs bar that reminded me of a Caribbean oasis. We hung out there until 11PM when they ended alcohol service and closed the place (since it was Sunday). Unsure what to do with ourselves, most SAS kids mingled in the streets before someone decided to start a beach party. Thus, we all headed to the gas station for beer and firewood and headed to the beach. While I had a great time warming up next to the fire, the Cali kids keep insisting it was “too high school” for them. We made it safely back to our German cottage hotel by 4PM to stuff four of us in one large bed for the night.
Highs and Lows
My “high” was when Goldie and I made our own little sandstorm. My “low” was watching drunk kids stumble around a huge bonfire (thankfully no one fell in).
Saturday, September 20, 2008
Day 23 – Around the Harbor
Sept 20th
Morning After Camping
While a group of us watched the sun slowly emerge of the cliffs, we passed the time making art by balancing stones on top of each other. We climbed down by 7:30 to be the first in line for a fresh and wonderful breakfast. There were all types of fresh fruits, scrambled eggs, beacon, bread and jams, granola and yogurt, cereal and the dirt coffee again. I enjoyed a cup of “breakfast punch,” which we think was a mix of pineapple, papaya and orange juices. After cleaning up, Sara and I went for a less-strenuous hike through the rocks to find a dried river-bed with name carvings. Apparently, Raul and Paco decided to engrave their names forever in the stone. After packing up, we loaded up the 4x4s for a scenic drive back to Walvis Bay via the town of Swakopmund.
Around Walvis
Once back at the harbor, I explored the area some more to observe the overwhelming German influences. Prior to Namibian independence, Namibia consisted of various nomadic groups, who were pushed out by German and South African colonists. Thus, much of the area has highly western influences. There are multiple German pastry shops, and even the Lonely Planet guide suggests that “things to eat” in Namibia are Bavarian pastries. While snacking on Goldie’s favorite, honeycomb candy bar called Crunchie, I sat and chatted with Echo, a local craftsman who was whittling a spear for his warrior statue. Originally an accounting student in Zimbabwe, Echo had to leave the country and his family in order to escape the corrupt government. In March, Zimbabwe’s President Robert Mugabe unleashed a brutal crackdown on the opposition as he tried to cling to power following a defeat in the first round of the presidential election. (‘The Interpreter’ with Nichole Kidman was loosely based around this story.) Hopeful about the government’s current move toward change, Echo felt he would eventually be able to return to his family in 5 months or so to resume his studies. For now, he is stuck in Namibia making his way by carving and selling crafts.
Night in Walvis
I met Julie and others back at the ship to head out to dinner at The Raft, a restaurant bar held up on stilts over Walvis’ lagoon. This adorable, rustic bar was home to a brown, shaggy dog that wandered around the place while people eat and drank. There Cynthia, Leah and I met Will, a Canadian underwater welder, who was thrilled to see North Americans in his midst. We introduced us to some colleagues: a Namibian named Steve and a South African whose name I can’t remember. The best part of the whole night was meeting Will’s boss whose rumpled clothes, full beard, shaggy hair and stutter made him look exactly like a terrorist. Will grabbed the South African’s wallet and bought us (and our professors across the bar) rounds of tequila shots to celebrate our first night in Namibia. Eventually, we made it back to bed safe and sound by 5AM.
Highs and Lows
My “high” was meeting Osama Bin Laden. My “low” was leaving the most beautiful desert I have ever seen.
Morning After Camping
While a group of us watched the sun slowly emerge of the cliffs, we passed the time making art by balancing stones on top of each other. We climbed down by 7:30 to be the first in line for a fresh and wonderful breakfast. There were all types of fresh fruits, scrambled eggs, beacon, bread and jams, granola and yogurt, cereal and the dirt coffee again. I enjoyed a cup of “breakfast punch,” which we think was a mix of pineapple, papaya and orange juices. After cleaning up, Sara and I went for a less-strenuous hike through the rocks to find a dried river-bed with name carvings. Apparently, Raul and Paco decided to engrave their names forever in the stone. After packing up, we loaded up the 4x4s for a scenic drive back to Walvis Bay via the town of Swakopmund.
Around Walvis
Once back at the harbor, I explored the area some more to observe the overwhelming German influences. Prior to Namibian independence, Namibia consisted of various nomadic groups, who were pushed out by German and South African colonists. Thus, much of the area has highly western influences. There are multiple German pastry shops, and even the Lonely Planet guide suggests that “things to eat” in Namibia are Bavarian pastries. While snacking on Goldie’s favorite, honeycomb candy bar called Crunchie, I sat and chatted with Echo, a local craftsman who was whittling a spear for his warrior statue. Originally an accounting student in Zimbabwe, Echo had to leave the country and his family in order to escape the corrupt government. In March, Zimbabwe’s President Robert Mugabe unleashed a brutal crackdown on the opposition as he tried to cling to power following a defeat in the first round of the presidential election. (‘The Interpreter’ with Nichole Kidman was loosely based around this story.) Hopeful about the government’s current move toward change, Echo felt he would eventually be able to return to his family in 5 months or so to resume his studies. For now, he is stuck in Namibia making his way by carving and selling crafts.
Night in Walvis
I met Julie and others back at the ship to head out to dinner at The Raft, a restaurant bar held up on stilts over Walvis’ lagoon. This adorable, rustic bar was home to a brown, shaggy dog that wandered around the place while people eat and drank. There Cynthia, Leah and I met Will, a Canadian underwater welder, who was thrilled to see North Americans in his midst. We introduced us to some colleagues: a Namibian named Steve and a South African whose name I can’t remember. The best part of the whole night was meeting Will’s boss whose rumpled clothes, full beard, shaggy hair and stutter made him look exactly like a terrorist. Will grabbed the South African’s wallet and bought us (and our professors across the bar) rounds of tequila shots to celebrate our first night in Namibia. Eventually, we made it back to bed safe and sound by 5AM.
Highs and Lows
My “high” was meeting Osama Bin Laden. My “low” was leaving the most beautiful desert I have ever seen.
Friday, September 19, 2008
Day 22 – Walvis Bay, Namibia
Sept 19th
Pre-port Information
We docked in Walvis Bay (pronounced “Wall-fish” Bay) at 8AM. Everyone headed to the Union for a diplomatic briefing by Frank, who works for the U.S Embassy in Namibia, and David, who works for the U.S. Special Security Ops in Africa. Despite the heavy breathing that made him sound like Darth Vader, Frank presented some interesting information on political, social and economic conditions in Namibia. Namibia’s median age is 20 because of the high morality rate due to AIDS. Almost 40% are unemployed and inflation tapers around 12%. Despite all the deleterious conditions, my (future) experiences in Namibia didn’t seem to suggest their prevalence. Being Special Security Ops personnel, David talked mostly about crime and traveler warnings in Namibia. Surprisingly, despite all the poverty, Namibia’s crime rating is quite low and only limited to petty crime, including pick pockets and car break-ins. There are actually “car guards” on the street and you can pay them 2-3 Namibian dollars (about 25 American cents) to watch your car for a few hours while you shop. The most important form of advice he gave us was to “Be A Zebra,” since zebra are more cautious while drinking at water holes (thus escaping crocodiles), as opposed to the wildebeest, which tends to be eaten.
Walvis Bay
Upon disembarking, we stepped off the ship to the unpleasant smell of harbor fish and urine (as usual it seems). Once we passed through the harbor gate, Herero women, who were topless and smeared in red mud, greeted us with jewelry for sale. A mini market of African trade items, including wooden bowls, carved animals and stone figurines, developed outside the harbor once locals found out 700 Americans were in the area. While walking around, we were all really surprised at the cleanliness and westernization of the town. There wasn’t a piece of trash to be found and buildings were immaculately maintained. Stone streets were wide and traffic was light. Everyone was very friendly and always greeted us, since it is considered extremely rude not to greet people. Some even taught us their “African handshake” that consists of griping your fingers together, while pressing your thumbs together. You are also never supposed to point your finger in public because it is considered to be challenging someone to a dual. For lunch, the locals suggested we try Spur’s, which turned out to be exactly like a Denny’s restaurant. Each chain has a different theme based on an American State. Weird, I know. We eat in Nevada with Navajo totem poles and feather displays everywhere. Goldie, Sara and I ventured to try the monkey gland burger with green cream soda. (Monkey gland sauce turned out to be delicious BBQ sauce.)
Camping and Stargazing
That afternoon, Britney, Sara and I boarded 4x4 vehicles to transfer to the Namib Nauklift Park. Our tour passed the infamous Dune 7, the Moon Landscape and Goanikontes Oasis on our way to Pajero Camp. Dune 7 is the highest dune in the area. The Moon Landscape is a natural, eerie replica of the moon’s actual surface. Goanikontes Oasis is a desolate olive farm in the smack middle of nowhere and Pajero Camp was located in a canyon that not even our tour guides could find. Despite GPS, we got lost three times and had a van sunk in the sand, leaving us some time to toss a frisbee and take pictures. When we did make it to camp, we had free time to explore and settle into our tents. Contrary to my belief that we would be sleeping on the floor and pooping in holes, we had luxurious two-person tents with lush comforters on rod iron beds along with personal bucket showers. They even brought a bathroom (via trailer) with flushing toilets and running water! With time before dinner to kill, we ingeniously decided to go rock climbing. While climbing the sandstone rocks was miserable because of the sharp, brittle edges, the views from the top were well worth it. While we didn’t see much else besides some lizards, bugs and animal droppings, we were warned to wear sneakers at all times because of scorpions. By dinner time we changed into sweats and gathered by the fire pits to enjoy some Savannah Lights (cider beer). Dinner was catered in a large white tent with linen tablecloths and wasn’t what I would call traditional Namibian food. It consisted of beef Wellington, Mexican chicken, garlic potatoes, steamed veggies and a papaya/cheese appetizer. Desert was orange pastries with vanilla cream served with coffee that tasted like sand. Fully satisfied, we headed back to the fire pits to enjoy some after dinner drinks and stargaze. Two star experts gave a brief presentation on astronomy in the area. Using an enormous white telescope, they pointed out different constellations, including Sagittarius, along with Jupiter and the Milky Way. While chatting around the fire with some kids, Ines and Frances (two staff members at the camp) excitingly joined us and shared their music via cell phones. Through broken English we talked about sports, music and movies, of which their favorite is ‘Flight of the Phoenix’ with Dennis Kwade because it was shot in the canyon next to the camp. At around 3AM, some girls and I decided to pull our heavy, iron beds into the center of camp to sleep outside. Snuggled deeply in our makeshift “cocoons,” we chatted and watched shooting stars and satellites pass overhead. We eventually feel asleep to the utter silence of the desert. It was the quietest I have ever heard nature. Roughly two-hours later as the sun began to show over the cliffs, I headed out on an hour-long, morning rock climb to get a better view. (I say rock climb rather than hike because the steepness of the cliffs made it terrifying climbing without ropes. Thankfully, I was not the girl wearing rainbow sandals during this experience.)
Highs and Lows
My “high” was finding out that MTV’s Exiled reality show, for which one episode was shot in Namibia, is actually a total hoax. (The camp staff said the girl was pampered like a princess until she had to spend a few hours in the wilderness.) My “low” was finding out Ines and Frances had no idea who the Namibian rap artist ERAZE was… and not getting to poop in a hole.
Pre-port Information
We docked in Walvis Bay (pronounced “Wall-fish” Bay) at 8AM. Everyone headed to the Union for a diplomatic briefing by Frank, who works for the U.S Embassy in Namibia, and David, who works for the U.S. Special Security Ops in Africa. Despite the heavy breathing that made him sound like Darth Vader, Frank presented some interesting information on political, social and economic conditions in Namibia. Namibia’s median age is 20 because of the high morality rate due to AIDS. Almost 40% are unemployed and inflation tapers around 12%. Despite all the deleterious conditions, my (future) experiences in Namibia didn’t seem to suggest their prevalence. Being Special Security Ops personnel, David talked mostly about crime and traveler warnings in Namibia. Surprisingly, despite all the poverty, Namibia’s crime rating is quite low and only limited to petty crime, including pick pockets and car break-ins. There are actually “car guards” on the street and you can pay them 2-3 Namibian dollars (about 25 American cents) to watch your car for a few hours while you shop. The most important form of advice he gave us was to “Be A Zebra,” since zebra are more cautious while drinking at water holes (thus escaping crocodiles), as opposed to the wildebeest, which tends to be eaten.
Walvis Bay
Upon disembarking, we stepped off the ship to the unpleasant smell of harbor fish and urine (as usual it seems). Once we passed through the harbor gate, Herero women, who were topless and smeared in red mud, greeted us with jewelry for sale. A mini market of African trade items, including wooden bowls, carved animals and stone figurines, developed outside the harbor once locals found out 700 Americans were in the area. While walking around, we were all really surprised at the cleanliness and westernization of the town. There wasn’t a piece of trash to be found and buildings were immaculately maintained. Stone streets were wide and traffic was light. Everyone was very friendly and always greeted us, since it is considered extremely rude not to greet people. Some even taught us their “African handshake” that consists of griping your fingers together, while pressing your thumbs together. You are also never supposed to point your finger in public because it is considered to be challenging someone to a dual. For lunch, the locals suggested we try Spur’s, which turned out to be exactly like a Denny’s restaurant. Each chain has a different theme based on an American State. Weird, I know. We eat in Nevada with Navajo totem poles and feather displays everywhere. Goldie, Sara and I ventured to try the monkey gland burger with green cream soda. (Monkey gland sauce turned out to be delicious BBQ sauce.)
Camping and Stargazing
That afternoon, Britney, Sara and I boarded 4x4 vehicles to transfer to the Namib Nauklift Park. Our tour passed the infamous Dune 7, the Moon Landscape and Goanikontes Oasis on our way to Pajero Camp. Dune 7 is the highest dune in the area. The Moon Landscape is a natural, eerie replica of the moon’s actual surface. Goanikontes Oasis is a desolate olive farm in the smack middle of nowhere and Pajero Camp was located in a canyon that not even our tour guides could find. Despite GPS, we got lost three times and had a van sunk in the sand, leaving us some time to toss a frisbee and take pictures. When we did make it to camp, we had free time to explore and settle into our tents. Contrary to my belief that we would be sleeping on the floor and pooping in holes, we had luxurious two-person tents with lush comforters on rod iron beds along with personal bucket showers. They even brought a bathroom (via trailer) with flushing toilets and running water! With time before dinner to kill, we ingeniously decided to go rock climbing. While climbing the sandstone rocks was miserable because of the sharp, brittle edges, the views from the top were well worth it. While we didn’t see much else besides some lizards, bugs and animal droppings, we were warned to wear sneakers at all times because of scorpions. By dinner time we changed into sweats and gathered by the fire pits to enjoy some Savannah Lights (cider beer). Dinner was catered in a large white tent with linen tablecloths and wasn’t what I would call traditional Namibian food. It consisted of beef Wellington, Mexican chicken, garlic potatoes, steamed veggies and a papaya/cheese appetizer. Desert was orange pastries with vanilla cream served with coffee that tasted like sand. Fully satisfied, we headed back to the fire pits to enjoy some after dinner drinks and stargaze. Two star experts gave a brief presentation on astronomy in the area. Using an enormous white telescope, they pointed out different constellations, including Sagittarius, along with Jupiter and the Milky Way. While chatting around the fire with some kids, Ines and Frances (two staff members at the camp) excitingly joined us and shared their music via cell phones. Through broken English we talked about sports, music and movies, of which their favorite is ‘Flight of the Phoenix’ with Dennis Kwade because it was shot in the canyon next to the camp. At around 3AM, some girls and I decided to pull our heavy, iron beds into the center of camp to sleep outside. Snuggled deeply in our makeshift “cocoons,” we chatted and watched shooting stars and satellites pass overhead. We eventually feel asleep to the utter silence of the desert. It was the quietest I have ever heard nature. Roughly two-hours later as the sun began to show over the cliffs, I headed out on an hour-long, morning rock climb to get a better view. (I say rock climb rather than hike because the steepness of the cliffs made it terrifying climbing without ropes. Thankfully, I was not the girl wearing rainbow sandals during this experience.)
Highs and Lows
My “high” was finding out that MTV’s Exiled reality show, for which one episode was shot in Namibia, is actually a total hoax. (The camp staff said the girl was pampered like a princess until she had to spend a few hours in the wilderness.) My “low” was finding out Ines and Frances had no idea who the Namibian rap artist ERAZE was… and not getting to poop in a hole.
Thursday, September 18, 2008
Day 21 – So you can dance?
Sept 18th
Days Events
Today we had logistical pre-port where they told us about getting around, health concerns and dismemberment details. Apparently, there is some sort of worm prevalent to the area that can eat its way into your skin and lay eggs. It travels via dogs’ feces, but can also be carried by dust. So, I guess I’ll be wearing sneakers everywhere! We were also reminded that kids have already had up to $6,000 stolen frAfterwards, Students for Service held a fundraiser in the Union called “So You Think You Can Dance?” We got to see Linda do an interpretive dance to ‘Sail Away’ (and yes she was serious about it), a traditional Ethiopian dance, some salsa by Hal the oldest professors on the ship, a traditional India dance, a reenactment of ‘Call On Me,’ and some hip-hop groups. It was hilarious and ended in a tie between Cassandra’s India dance and a group called Roar that dance to the lion king.
Highs and Lows
My “high” was getting ready to see FREAKING Namibia. My “low” was sitting through the excruciatingly awkward silence during Linda’s performance (it later erupted in cheers).
Days Events
Today we had logistical pre-port where they told us about getting around, health concerns and dismemberment details. Apparently, there is some sort of worm prevalent to the area that can eat its way into your skin and lay eggs. It travels via dogs’ feces, but can also be carried by dust. So, I guess I’ll be wearing sneakers everywhere! We were also reminded that kids have already had up to $6,000 stolen frAfterwards, Students for Service held a fundraiser in the Union called “So You Think You Can Dance?” We got to see Linda do an interpretive dance to ‘Sail Away’ (and yes she was serious about it), a traditional Ethiopian dance, some salsa by Hal the oldest professors on the ship, a traditional India dance, a reenactment of ‘Call On Me,’ and some hip-hop groups. It was hilarious and ended in a tie between Cassandra’s India dance and a group called Roar that dance to the lion king.
Highs and Lows
My “high” was getting ready to see FREAKING Namibia. My “low” was sitting through the excruciatingly awkward silence during Linda’s performance (it later erupted in cheers).
Wednesday, September 17, 2008
Day 20 – Cultural Pre-port
Sept 17th
Cultural pre-port
After classes, we had our Namibian cultural pre-port, which explains all the ins and outs of Namibian society. We learned that Namibia is the youngest country in Africa, once it officially gained impendence in 1990. After years of German and South African colonial control, Namibia is now a sparse, desolate landscape of 2 million people. They have 300 days of sunshine a year. 90% are Christians, despite the presence of over 12 ethnic minorities. The official language is English, but we have been given language cards with German and Afrikaans to help us out. Professor Scott presented the pop culture aspects, which include the famous actor Nixan from ‘The Gods Must Be Crazy,’ the Jolie-Pitt offspring (Shiloh) birthplace, the fashion of cowboy boots, the contemporary dance of stomp and the popularity of hip-hop star ERAZE. They played a little of his music and I think we will definitely be getting a copy of his CD. ‘Lonely planet’ offered pertinent info also:
Highs and Lows
My “high” was finding out oranges attract elephants. My “low” was being unable to duplicate Goldie’s wild-bird calls, which would come in so handy.
Cultural pre-port
After classes, we had our Namibian cultural pre-port, which explains all the ins and outs of Namibian society. We learned that Namibia is the youngest country in Africa, once it officially gained impendence in 1990. After years of German and South African colonial control, Namibia is now a sparse, desolate landscape of 2 million people. They have 300 days of sunshine a year. 90% are Christians, despite the presence of over 12 ethnic minorities. The official language is English, but we have been given language cards with German and Afrikaans to help us out. Professor Scott presented the pop culture aspects, which include the famous actor Nixan from ‘The Gods Must Be Crazy,’ the Jolie-Pitt offspring (Shiloh) birthplace, the fashion of cowboy boots, the contemporary dance of stomp and the popularity of hip-hop star ERAZE. They played a little of his music and I think we will definitely be getting a copy of his CD. ‘Lonely planet’ offered pertinent info also:
1) “Never pitch a tent in an open area along a riverbank as this is probably a hippo run.”
2) “When camping, don’t keep fresh fruit-especially oranges-because they attract elephants.”
I’ll have to keep that in mind during my soon-to-be camping ventures.2) “When camping, don’t keep fresh fruit-especially oranges-because they attract elephants.”
Highs and Lows
My “high” was finding out oranges attract elephants. My “low” was being unable to duplicate Goldie’s wild-bird calls, which would come in so handy.
Tuesday, September 16, 2008
Day 19 – Free Day
Sept 16th
A Day off
After staying up late to watch 27 Dresses, I got up at noon delighted to find out it was taco day! So, breakfast was tacos. Yum. I hung out and did some work in the Union, while listening to students learn to play some sort of African drum/chime. At 1:30 they had all students apply for absentee ballots, so hopefully that will work out somehow. During “snack time” I chugged my last precious Guarana (Brazilian energy drink) and left to take a Vandy picture on deck four. Miserably, I found out the picture is nothing more than a marketing ploy by SAS to send to our schools to put in the school paper. I highly doubt Vandy will know what to do with it. Afterwards I headed to the gym, followed by a freezing shower and some more work before dinner. Tonight I have a group meeting to discuss SWAPO, the political organization responsible for achieving Namibia’s independence. Then it’s Pub Night again with Jen, Alexis and Co.
Highs and Lows
My “high” was finding out I can take warm showers. My “low” was finding out that I have been taking cold showers because I didn’t realize the knob was facing in the wrong direction. Woops.
A Day off
After staying up late to watch 27 Dresses, I got up at noon delighted to find out it was taco day! So, breakfast was tacos. Yum. I hung out and did some work in the Union, while listening to students learn to play some sort of African drum/chime. At 1:30 they had all students apply for absentee ballots, so hopefully that will work out somehow. During “snack time” I chugged my last precious Guarana (Brazilian energy drink) and left to take a Vandy picture on deck four. Miserably, I found out the picture is nothing more than a marketing ploy by SAS to send to our schools to put in the school paper. I highly doubt Vandy will know what to do with it. Afterwards I headed to the gym, followed by a freezing shower and some more work before dinner. Tonight I have a group meeting to discuss SWAPO, the political organization responsible for achieving Namibia’s independence. Then it’s Pub Night again with Jen, Alexis and Co.
Highs and Lows
My “high” was finding out I can take warm showers. My “low” was finding out that I have been taking cold showers because I didn’t realize the knob was facing in the wrong direction. Woops.
Monday, September 15, 2008
Day 18 – Sea, Sea, Sea
Sept 15th
Geography Lesson
We are passing through a population center of Fin whales, the second largest species that can grow up to 75 feet. We will also be passing over an area with submerged, inactive volcanic mountains and be crossing the mid-Atlantic Ridge, part of the world’s longest mountain chain. It stretches 65,000 km. The ridge line even breaks through the ocean surface in a few places forming islands, such as Iceland. Later today we are going to pass 350 miles south of St. Helena, a desolate island that was the exile home of Napoleon (1815-1821)! How cool right? It’s like we are sight seeing at sea.
Rest of the day
Classes ended at noon, so I spent some time at the gym and the library. Most of the day was spent hanging around the ship before yoga on deck seven. I had never done it on a rocking ship before, so it was pretty difficult. Then I had designated “snack time” with Sara and Britney. (The Hawaiian pizzas on this ship are killer.) After dinner, students gathered in the Union to watch documentary called Finding Face about acid attacks on women in Cambodia. Somehow I got all these people excited to see it, so I was preying it wouldn’t dissuade any of us from going later this semester. Afterwards we headed to open mic night to hear TG read a poem about being fatherless, Bobby scream a poem about AIDS and Tite sing the most beautiful songs ever. I’m officially dating his voice… and I told him that the first time I met him. Tomorrow is our day off, which will be so nice because everyone is exhausted from loosing an hour of sleep each night. Tonight is a full moon, so we may also sleep out on the deck! We’ll have to see where the evening takes us….
Highs and Lows
My “high” was balancing downward facing dog on a moving ship. My “low” was finding out that the surprise picture they took of me walking on the ship on day one (the one I joked that I looked like I have down syndrome?) is ACTUALLY on the semester at sea website!
Geography Lesson
We are passing through a population center of Fin whales, the second largest species that can grow up to 75 feet. We will also be passing over an area with submerged, inactive volcanic mountains and be crossing the mid-Atlantic Ridge, part of the world’s longest mountain chain. It stretches 65,000 km. The ridge line even breaks through the ocean surface in a few places forming islands, such as Iceland. Later today we are going to pass 350 miles south of St. Helena, a desolate island that was the exile home of Napoleon (1815-1821)! How cool right? It’s like we are sight seeing at sea.
Rest of the day
Classes ended at noon, so I spent some time at the gym and the library. Most of the day was spent hanging around the ship before yoga on deck seven. I had never done it on a rocking ship before, so it was pretty difficult. Then I had designated “snack time” with Sara and Britney. (The Hawaiian pizzas on this ship are killer.) After dinner, students gathered in the Union to watch documentary called Finding Face about acid attacks on women in Cambodia. Somehow I got all these people excited to see it, so I was preying it wouldn’t dissuade any of us from going later this semester. Afterwards we headed to open mic night to hear TG read a poem about being fatherless, Bobby scream a poem about AIDS and Tite sing the most beautiful songs ever. I’m officially dating his voice… and I told him that the first time I met him. Tomorrow is our day off, which will be so nice because everyone is exhausted from loosing an hour of sleep each night. Tonight is a full moon, so we may also sleep out on the deck! We’ll have to see where the evening takes us….
Highs and Lows
My “high” was balancing downward facing dog on a moving ship. My “low” was finding out that the surprise picture they took of me walking on the ship on day one (the one I joked that I looked like I have down syndrome?) is ACTUALLY on the semester at sea website!
Sunday, September 14, 2008
Day 17 – No land in sight
Sept 14th
Interesting tid bits of the day
After a delightfully long sleep, I had classes in the morning and then did some more reading for class. I learned that the letters on a typewriter were specifically designed to make a person type as slow as possible. According to Guns, Germs and Steel, typewriters would get jammed if people typed too fast, so they clustered the most utilized letters on the left where people’s less-dominant hand is, as well as spread important letters over the keyboard. Apparently, scientists have also engineered a new keyboard that is 95% more efficient, but hasn’t been accepted by society because the original keyboard is too embedded in society. Interesting, right? In my Psych of Food reading, we learned that women in Africa eat dirt and clay (called geogaphy) because of nutrient deficiencies. The body naturally knows what nutrients are missing from its diet and consumes those items have are rich in it even if it is soap or paint chips (hence babies eating walls, etc). Weird.
Freezing at sea
The rest of the afternoon was spent on the deck with friends. Since we are in the middle of the Atlantic, it is getting really windy and cold, making sunbathing impossible. Some diehards are still out there with goose bumps, but I just go out bundled in sweatshirts and sweatpants. Our cabin at night gets pretty cold too. I’m so glad I brought an extra blanket. I would hate to end up in the morgue on the ship. (Yes, there is a morgue and a jail onboard!)
Highs and Lows
My “high” was figuring out a way to smuggle four brownies out of the dining hall, using only my body! My “low” was watching the gruesome movie Aminstad before bed with Julie.
Interesting tid bits of the day
After a delightfully long sleep, I had classes in the morning and then did some more reading for class. I learned that the letters on a typewriter were specifically designed to make a person type as slow as possible. According to Guns, Germs and Steel, typewriters would get jammed if people typed too fast, so they clustered the most utilized letters on the left where people’s less-dominant hand is, as well as spread important letters over the keyboard. Apparently, scientists have also engineered a new keyboard that is 95% more efficient, but hasn’t been accepted by society because the original keyboard is too embedded in society. Interesting, right? In my Psych of Food reading, we learned that women in Africa eat dirt and clay (called geogaphy) because of nutrient deficiencies. The body naturally knows what nutrients are missing from its diet and consumes those items have are rich in it even if it is soap or paint chips (hence babies eating walls, etc). Weird.
Freezing at sea
The rest of the afternoon was spent on the deck with friends. Since we are in the middle of the Atlantic, it is getting really windy and cold, making sunbathing impossible. Some diehards are still out there with goose bumps, but I just go out bundled in sweatshirts and sweatpants. Our cabin at night gets pretty cold too. I’m so glad I brought an extra blanket. I would hate to end up in the morgue on the ship. (Yes, there is a morgue and a jail onboard!)
Highs and Lows
My “high” was figuring out a way to smuggle four brownies out of the dining hall, using only my body! My “low” was watching the gruesome movie Aminstad before bed with Julie.
Saturday, September 13, 2008
Day 16 – Sleepy at Sea
Sept 13th
Dazed and Confused…
I spent most of the day zoned out from lack of sleep. The day started with Global studies where we learned about power struggles over oil in past and present history. My professor seems to have the impression that China is going to rule the world and America is fucked. We’ll see how that goes. By far my favorite class Psych of Food was awesome as expected. We’re learning about the biology behind food aversion and taste preferences. After some homework, I lounged on the pool deck and gazed at the sweaty boys working out on the fitness equipment. It’s kinda awkward, but all the weight machines are on the top deck due to lack of space in the real gym. I learned a new card game called spades and became the automatic winner of the game when I brought the boys a half-eaten pizza from another table because they were too afraid to get it themselves. We were also playing with this girl who has already taken 7,000 pictures on this trip! I have no idea how that happened! After they saw me nodding off between hands though, they all convinced me to take a nap. Gladly, I obliged and ending up taking a 12 hour “nap.” Once again we had to advance our clocks since we loose another hour of sleep.
Highs and Lows
My “high” was my power nap. My “low” was taking my power nap through dinner.
Dazed and Confused…
I spent most of the day zoned out from lack of sleep. The day started with Global studies where we learned about power struggles over oil in past and present history. My professor seems to have the impression that China is going to rule the world and America is fucked. We’ll see how that goes. By far my favorite class Psych of Food was awesome as expected. We’re learning about the biology behind food aversion and taste preferences. After some homework, I lounged on the pool deck and gazed at the sweaty boys working out on the fitness equipment. It’s kinda awkward, but all the weight machines are on the top deck due to lack of space in the real gym. I learned a new card game called spades and became the automatic winner of the game when I brought the boys a half-eaten pizza from another table because they were too afraid to get it themselves. We were also playing with this girl who has already taken 7,000 pictures on this trip! I have no idea how that happened! After they saw me nodding off between hands though, they all convinced me to take a nap. Gladly, I obliged and ending up taking a 12 hour “nap.” Once again we had to advance our clocks since we loose another hour of sleep.
Highs and Lows
My “high” was my power nap. My “low” was taking my power nap through dinner.
Friday, September 12, 2008
Day 15 – At Sea
Sept 12th
Back to Routine
After class, we all spent the day catching up on sleep or reading. I spent 3.5 hours writing my blog about Brazil as a birthday present to Dad. (Happy Birthday, Dad!) Most meals and free time was spent relating in port experiences. Everyone seemed to really enjoy Brazil, but a few are disillusioned by the prospect of going somewhere more exotic. In preparation for Namibia’s skeleton coast where pirate ships are marooned, some of us spent hours thinking of pirate names. I still haven’t found a good one. Any suggestions?
Highs and Lows
My “high” was realizing there is another Vandy kid on the trip (who I still haven’t meet yet). My “low” was missing the speed-dating club meeting. (There is also a Tall Club, but I’m not sure how well I would be accepted there.)
Back to Routine
After class, we all spent the day catching up on sleep or reading. I spent 3.5 hours writing my blog about Brazil as a birthday present to Dad. (Happy Birthday, Dad!) Most meals and free time was spent relating in port experiences. Everyone seemed to really enjoy Brazil, but a few are disillusioned by the prospect of going somewhere more exotic. In preparation for Namibia’s skeleton coast where pirate ships are marooned, some of us spent hours thinking of pirate names. I still haven’t found a good one. Any suggestions?
Highs and Lows
My “high” was realizing there is another Vandy kid on the trip (who I still haven’t meet yet). My “low” was missing the speed-dating club meeting. (There is also a Tall Club, but I’m not sure how well I would be accepted there.)
Day 14 – Obrigado Brazil! (Thank you, Brazil!)
Sept 11th
Last day in Salvador
I woke up early to spend my last day in Salvador off the ship as much as possible. After recruiting Christina and Tirney to venture out with me, we walked around more of Salvador and stopped for a relaxing Brazilian café on the way. After picking up Marisa from the ship, we headed to the grocery store to stock up on granola bars for future missed breakfasts and Guarana (red bull made some natural Amazonian ingredients). While at the grocery store, I delightfully discovered the cheapest place to get the much sought after Havianas flip flops! With a few more left over reais to spend, we headed to the upper city for burgers, suco de goiaba (juice of guava) and acai. Acai is a tropical berry found in the Amazon that is coveted in America as an antioxidant powerhouse. Since we were in Brazil, we felt we had to try it. It came out like a slushy ice cream, mixed in was a honey/syrup and sprinkled on top were banana and granola. It was the best damn ice cream sundae I have ever had and the best way to leave Brazil. We headed back to the ship past “pee street” on which we actually saw a man peeing right in front of us. Lovely last image of Brazil. Once back on the ship we headed to the seventh deck for the captain’s BBQ to socialize and catch up with friends that just got back from other adventures.
Highs and Lows
My “high” was staying up with Kyle till 2AM for no reason just laughing hysterically. My “low” getting my first case of explosive traveler’s diarrhea after leaving the lettuce on my burger during my last meal.
Last day in Salvador
I woke up early to spend my last day in Salvador off the ship as much as possible. After recruiting Christina and Tirney to venture out with me, we walked around more of Salvador and stopped for a relaxing Brazilian café on the way. After picking up Marisa from the ship, we headed to the grocery store to stock up on granola bars for future missed breakfasts and Guarana (red bull made some natural Amazonian ingredients). While at the grocery store, I delightfully discovered the cheapest place to get the much sought after Havianas flip flops! With a few more left over reais to spend, we headed to the upper city for burgers, suco de goiaba (juice of guava) and acai. Acai is a tropical berry found in the Amazon that is coveted in America as an antioxidant powerhouse. Since we were in Brazil, we felt we had to try it. It came out like a slushy ice cream, mixed in was a honey/syrup and sprinkled on top were banana and granola. It was the best damn ice cream sundae I have ever had and the best way to leave Brazil. We headed back to the ship past “pee street” on which we actually saw a man peeing right in front of us. Lovely last image of Brazil. Once back on the ship we headed to the seventh deck for the captain’s BBQ to socialize and catch up with friends that just got back from other adventures.
Highs and Lows
My “high” was staying up with Kyle till 2AM for no reason just laughing hysterically. My “low” getting my first case of explosive traveler’s diarrhea after leaving the lettuce on my burger during my last meal.
Thursday, September 11, 2008
Day 13 – Last day in Rio
Sept 10th
“I’ve been inside Christ”
After three hours of sleep, Fernando woke us up with another friendly phone call at 7AM. We had breakfast, checked out of the hotel and headed out for the last day of site seeing. This time the weather was as glorious as I expected Rio to be and we were going to see Christ! We boarded 4x4 “jeepies” (something Fernando could not pronounce not did we tell him he was saying “jeeps” wrong) and headed toward the Santa Teresa district. After a cool, breezy drive through the Tijuca rainforest, we came to a plateau on Corcovado Mountain across from the infamous Christ the Redeemer. We took pictures off the most spectacular view of the soap stone statue that rises so far above the city it looks tiny from below. Then, we finally rode to the top of the mountain to see Christ himself up close. We took a tour bus only so far up, and walked the 250 steps to the top. From the highest point in Rio, it is absolutely amazing view of every part of the city. We took tons of pictures right up close and visited the chapel inside him. Of course, there were more tourist shops to peek inside as well.
Coconuts on the beach
After returning to Copacabana for some free time to enjoy our last meal in Rio, we headed back to yet another delicious churrascarias for grub. Corey and I then decided to walk to Impenma beach and check out the surfers. Sprawled along the beach were the infamous Brazlian bikinis and speedos we had heard so much about. They really don’t cover much else than what a thong would. Some kids on the trip did even get speedos for the pool deck on ship. We just bought coconuts hacked open with a machete and sat on the beach enjoying the slightly sweet coconut water. We strolled back to the hotel to discover we were actually 20 mins late for the bus. I guess we really adapted to South American time. Luckily, our leader did not give us ‘dock time,’ which is when you have to stay on the ship after docking at the next port for being late in an earlier port. After two two-hour flights back to Salvador with a lay over in the capital Brasilia, we made it back to the ship safe and sound.
Highs and Lows
My "high" was not getting dock time. My "low" was seeing women who should not have been wearing thongs on the beach.
“I’ve been inside Christ”
After three hours of sleep, Fernando woke us up with another friendly phone call at 7AM. We had breakfast, checked out of the hotel and headed out for the last day of site seeing. This time the weather was as glorious as I expected Rio to be and we were going to see Christ! We boarded 4x4 “jeepies” (something Fernando could not pronounce not did we tell him he was saying “jeeps” wrong) and headed toward the Santa Teresa district. After a cool, breezy drive through the Tijuca rainforest, we came to a plateau on Corcovado Mountain across from the infamous Christ the Redeemer. We took pictures off the most spectacular view of the soap stone statue that rises so far above the city it looks tiny from below. Then, we finally rode to the top of the mountain to see Christ himself up close. We took a tour bus only so far up, and walked the 250 steps to the top. From the highest point in Rio, it is absolutely amazing view of every part of the city. We took tons of pictures right up close and visited the chapel inside him. Of course, there were more tourist shops to peek inside as well.
Coconuts on the beach
After returning to Copacabana for some free time to enjoy our last meal in Rio, we headed back to yet another delicious churrascarias for grub. Corey and I then decided to walk to Impenma beach and check out the surfers. Sprawled along the beach were the infamous Brazlian bikinis and speedos we had heard so much about. They really don’t cover much else than what a thong would. Some kids on the trip did even get speedos for the pool deck on ship. We just bought coconuts hacked open with a machete and sat on the beach enjoying the slightly sweet coconut water. We strolled back to the hotel to discover we were actually 20 mins late for the bus. I guess we really adapted to South American time. Luckily, our leader did not give us ‘dock time,’ which is when you have to stay on the ship after docking at the next port for being late in an earlier port. After two two-hour flights back to Salvador with a lay over in the capital Brasilia, we made it back to the ship safe and sound.
Highs and Lows
My "high" was not getting dock time. My "low" was seeing women who should not have been wearing thongs on the beach.
Tuesday, September 9, 2008
Day 12 – Rio de Janeiro, Brazil
Sept 9th
Site Seeing
After a 8:45AM wake up call from Fernando, Allison and I headed to breakfast to taste delicious coconut pastries with jam and ‘suco do peach’. (Brazil has phenomenal juices!) After breakfast, we embarked on a breathtaking cable car ascent to the top of Rio’s Pao de Acucar (Sugar Loaf Mountain). While boarding, Amber bounced to the front of the car to get the best view, but ended up getting pooped on through an open window by a pigeon that was flying by. It was the most bizarre and hilarious thing I have seen happen to anyone. Once at the top, we took pictures, shopped in little stores they erected on the mountains and ventured through a jungle path that they carved into the side of the highest peak.
Best Restaurant in the World
Afterwards, we headed to an all-you-can-eat churrascarias called Marius in the Leme district. First you serve yourself a buffet of seafood, salads, vegetables and sushi. (There was sushi in almost all restaurants because Brazil has the largest Japanese population outside of Japan.) Then, servers come along with treys or skewers of meat and you can eat as much as you want. Some places even give you green and red cards to signal the waiters whether you want more or not. We tried every meat and dish they brought out. Including ram, sirloin, sausage and oyster. Each piece of meat had a salty, crunchy crust with the juiciest inside. Besides the food, the restaurant was incredible in itself. Everywhere there was something architectural and interesting. There were antique plates and cups sticking off walls. Shoes hanging off ceilings. One of a kind sculptures and sea objects everywhere. It was like being in a scene from Pirates of the Caribbean. The bathroom was the best part. They literally just dumped beautiful colored pebbles on the floor, so you had to march through them. You could even scoop them up in your hands.
How the other half lives…
After eating as much as we possible could, we visited a place where children can’t afford to eat as much as they deserve. Funded by private and religious donors, Mangueira is a community action school that takes children from favelas (slums) and isolates them on a compound to study and play sports. This way they are kept off the streets and away from drug cartels and street violence. While 4500 families apply for the program, only about 3000 actually get spots at the school, which takes children in pre-school to adults in professional programs. Older students (in their early twenties) are given a small pay stipend to stay in school as well as a month’s worth of groceries to help feed their families. The children at the compound were adorable and playful. Unfortunately, we only got a tour of the facilities and limited interaction with the students. I would have loved to join in on their soccer game. Our last destination for the day was a satellite building of the school. We entered this enormous warehouse-like building with the school colors (pink and green) painted everywhere. This was the samba school where students prepare a choreographed dance for Carnival every February. Some women were making miniature Carnival masks and insisted on giving all the girls in the group one. It was so sweet and is the best souvenir I could take home from Brazil. It was a really moving day.
New Discoveries
After cleaning up, Corey and I went on a mission to buy new cameras, since both of ours had broken that morning. (Unfortunately, I mashed my lens when it fell at the Mangueira school.) We walked into a few electronic stores, panda-mimed and used broken Spanish to show the clerks what we wanted until we found the perfect one. While comparing the megapixels, zoom and quality of cameras, we noticed something odd about the prices. The far superior quality camera was only 100 reais, while other average ones ranged between 300-500 reais. I was delighted to get such a good price, but couldn’t figure it out. Eventually, it dawned on us that the “08 x” before the price meant it was 8 payments of 100 reais. After conferring with Fernando, we discovered that Brazil has a tremendous consumer debt problem because so many individuals buy small (and especially large) items, like cameras, TVs or radios, on installments.
Rio at Night
To meet up with everyone else, we headed to the local market that set up every night along the beach. There was beautiful jewelry, hammocks, instruments and general artistry. Afterwards we excitedly choose Big Bob’s for dinner. It is the Brazilian equivalent to McDonald’s. Alex and Isaac got massive four layer cheeseburgers and finished all of it. These things were even bigger then anything I had seen at a fast food place before. Once we all gathered back at the hotel, we headed out to a local bar and samba dance club called ‘House’ for the night. All in all it was a great night of dancing the churrascarias’ calories away. The night ended with Marisa and I almost getting in a fight with the 350 pound bouncer, who didn’t speak English and couldn’t explain while he wouldn’t let us leave. Both of us being a measly 5’2’’ finally escaped after discovering we had to pay an exit fee of 20 reais. In the cab ride back, I discovered shards of glass sticking out of my feet from someone who had dropped a beer bottle near me. At least I didn’t feel the pain and made it home safe. Oo, what a night in Rio…
Highs and Lows
My “high” was watching Amber get pooped on. My “low” was dropping my camera at Manguiera and completely destroying the lense.
Site Seeing
After a 8:45AM wake up call from Fernando, Allison and I headed to breakfast to taste delicious coconut pastries with jam and ‘suco do peach’. (Brazil has phenomenal juices!) After breakfast, we embarked on a breathtaking cable car ascent to the top of Rio’s Pao de Acucar (Sugar Loaf Mountain). While boarding, Amber bounced to the front of the car to get the best view, but ended up getting pooped on through an open window by a pigeon that was flying by. It was the most bizarre and hilarious thing I have seen happen to anyone. Once at the top, we took pictures, shopped in little stores they erected on the mountains and ventured through a jungle path that they carved into the side of the highest peak.
Best Restaurant in the World
Afterwards, we headed to an all-you-can-eat churrascarias called Marius in the Leme district. First you serve yourself a buffet of seafood, salads, vegetables and sushi. (There was sushi in almost all restaurants because Brazil has the largest Japanese population outside of Japan.) Then, servers come along with treys or skewers of meat and you can eat as much as you want. Some places even give you green and red cards to signal the waiters whether you want more or not. We tried every meat and dish they brought out. Including ram, sirloin, sausage and oyster. Each piece of meat had a salty, crunchy crust with the juiciest inside. Besides the food, the restaurant was incredible in itself. Everywhere there was something architectural and interesting. There were antique plates and cups sticking off walls. Shoes hanging off ceilings. One of a kind sculptures and sea objects everywhere. It was like being in a scene from Pirates of the Caribbean. The bathroom was the best part. They literally just dumped beautiful colored pebbles on the floor, so you had to march through them. You could even scoop them up in your hands.
How the other half lives…
After eating as much as we possible could, we visited a place where children can’t afford to eat as much as they deserve. Funded by private and religious donors, Mangueira is a community action school that takes children from favelas (slums) and isolates them on a compound to study and play sports. This way they are kept off the streets and away from drug cartels and street violence. While 4500 families apply for the program, only about 3000 actually get spots at the school, which takes children in pre-school to adults in professional programs. Older students (in their early twenties) are given a small pay stipend to stay in school as well as a month’s worth of groceries to help feed their families. The children at the compound were adorable and playful. Unfortunately, we only got a tour of the facilities and limited interaction with the students. I would have loved to join in on their soccer game. Our last destination for the day was a satellite building of the school. We entered this enormous warehouse-like building with the school colors (pink and green) painted everywhere. This was the samba school where students prepare a choreographed dance for Carnival every February. Some women were making miniature Carnival masks and insisted on giving all the girls in the group one. It was so sweet and is the best souvenir I could take home from Brazil. It was a really moving day.
New Discoveries
After cleaning up, Corey and I went on a mission to buy new cameras, since both of ours had broken that morning. (Unfortunately, I mashed my lens when it fell at the Mangueira school.) We walked into a few electronic stores, panda-mimed and used broken Spanish to show the clerks what we wanted until we found the perfect one. While comparing the megapixels, zoom and quality of cameras, we noticed something odd about the prices. The far superior quality camera was only 100 reais, while other average ones ranged between 300-500 reais. I was delighted to get such a good price, but couldn’t figure it out. Eventually, it dawned on us that the “08 x” before the price meant it was 8 payments of 100 reais. After conferring with Fernando, we discovered that Brazil has a tremendous consumer debt problem because so many individuals buy small (and especially large) items, like cameras, TVs or radios, on installments.
Rio at Night
To meet up with everyone else, we headed to the local market that set up every night along the beach. There was beautiful jewelry, hammocks, instruments and general artistry. Afterwards we excitedly choose Big Bob’s for dinner. It is the Brazilian equivalent to McDonald’s. Alex and Isaac got massive four layer cheeseburgers and finished all of it. These things were even bigger then anything I had seen at a fast food place before. Once we all gathered back at the hotel, we headed out to a local bar and samba dance club called ‘House’ for the night. All in all it was a great night of dancing the churrascarias’ calories away. The night ended with Marisa and I almost getting in a fight with the 350 pound bouncer, who didn’t speak English and couldn’t explain while he wouldn’t let us leave. Both of us being a measly 5’2’’ finally escaped after discovering we had to pay an exit fee of 20 reais. In the cab ride back, I discovered shards of glass sticking out of my feet from someone who had dropped a beer bottle near me. At least I didn’t feel the pain and made it home safe. Oo, what a night in Rio…
Highs and Lows
My “high” was watching Amber get pooped on. My “low” was dropping my camera at Manguiera and completely destroying the lense.
Monday, September 8, 2008
Day 11 – Leave for Rio
Sept 8th
Late to bed, early to rise
After a long night of dancing the night away, I woke up at 4:45AM to catch a plane to Rio. Regardless, I had no complaints. They served us orange juice and chocolate pastries in the Union as we waited for the group to gather. After a two-hour flight, we meet our tour guide Fernando at the airport. On the bus ride to the Golden Tulip Regente hotel, we watched as the progression of countryside turned into the favelas (slums) into the middle class homes into the high rise city and finally to the beach of Copacabana.
First Impressions
Famous for having one of the most beautiful city settings in the world, Rio definitely makes up for that claim. Sprawled between enormous, gum-drop shaped mountains, Rio infrastructure nestles nicely into the valleys between peaks. Most of the buildings are decrepit and clearly in need of repair, but the actual geography of the tropical city is breathtaking. Because of the hazy on the first day, we couldn’t see Christ the Redeemer although Fernando reassured us that he was still there. As soon as we arrived at the hotel, my roommate Allison, Corey, Alex, Sara and I headed out for the closest churrascarias (traditional buffet/steak house), which happened to be the Grill Inn. After getting a plate, you serve yourself as much as you want from the buffet and weigh your food to record how much you have to pay. This was a great way of trying tons of local dishes. I don’t know what half of them were, but as long as there were no uncooked vegetables I eat it! To go along with the festivities, we all ordered a local drink called a caipirinha (rum made from sugarcane, sugar and lime). Under the impression it was an enjoyable cocktail similar to a mojito, we all took swigs of it after a toast to Rio. Well, Rio sent us gagging as locals looked at us in bewilderment! Let me just say that the drink does not taste like a mojito, but more like straight rum. The sugar just nestled at the bottom of the glass and the lime did nothing to add flavor. One caipirinha was all we needed for the day! After lunch, we stumbled out to walk along the major boulevards behind our hotel. Surprisingly, there were not very many tourist shops as I would have expected. Rio bustles with the everyday traffic of locals, rather than rely on the cultural tourism in Salvador. It was nice not being hassled into buy something on every street corner.
Copacabana Beach
Once Allison and Sara headed back to the hotel for a nap, Alex, Corey and I headed to the beach to check out the waves and view of the bay. Because of the poor weather, it was absolutely deserted except for a few runners and guys in speedos. Well, there was nothing else to do but test the water, so we stripped down and hopped in for a taste of the salty waves. While watching the beach, we saw a man dig a hole, poop in it and then cover it back up before heading back to the water. Totally grossed out, we decided not to taste the water anymore. After a quick shower back at the hotel, we explored the city streets as little more and visited Shopping Rio Sul, which is an equivalent to the Westchester Mall. We stayed long enough for an espresso and went back to meet everyone for dinner.
Dinner and Night
Everyone meet in the lobby at 7PM to head to Vinicius, a beautiful outdoor restaurant in the middle of the Impanema district. We spent the night chatting away and sharing new food discoveries, until we headed out to wander colorful Impanema. The most beautiful part of Rio was seeing the tropical, vein covered trees that sprung up along the streets. During our venture, we found an Irish Pub called Schooligans that seemed to find every SAS kid in Rio, including the ones doing it “indy” (independently). It was quiz night, which was a lot of fun, but Allison, Corey and I headed back to the Golden Tulip for nightcaps of suco do maracuje (juice of maracuje–my favorite new juice) and watch the waves on the beach.
Highs and Lows
My “high” was watching a man poop in the sand. My “low” was not getting to go hang gliding on our free day because the weather was bad.
Late to bed, early to rise
After a long night of dancing the night away, I woke up at 4:45AM to catch a plane to Rio. Regardless, I had no complaints. They served us orange juice and chocolate pastries in the Union as we waited for the group to gather. After a two-hour flight, we meet our tour guide Fernando at the airport. On the bus ride to the Golden Tulip Regente hotel, we watched as the progression of countryside turned into the favelas (slums) into the middle class homes into the high rise city and finally to the beach of Copacabana.
First Impressions
Famous for having one of the most beautiful city settings in the world, Rio definitely makes up for that claim. Sprawled between enormous, gum-drop shaped mountains, Rio infrastructure nestles nicely into the valleys between peaks. Most of the buildings are decrepit and clearly in need of repair, but the actual geography of the tropical city is breathtaking. Because of the hazy on the first day, we couldn’t see Christ the Redeemer although Fernando reassured us that he was still there. As soon as we arrived at the hotel, my roommate Allison, Corey, Alex, Sara and I headed out for the closest churrascarias (traditional buffet/steak house), which happened to be the Grill Inn. After getting a plate, you serve yourself as much as you want from the buffet and weigh your food to record how much you have to pay. This was a great way of trying tons of local dishes. I don’t know what half of them were, but as long as there were no uncooked vegetables I eat it! To go along with the festivities, we all ordered a local drink called a caipirinha (rum made from sugarcane, sugar and lime). Under the impression it was an enjoyable cocktail similar to a mojito, we all took swigs of it after a toast to Rio. Well, Rio sent us gagging as locals looked at us in bewilderment! Let me just say that the drink does not taste like a mojito, but more like straight rum. The sugar just nestled at the bottom of the glass and the lime did nothing to add flavor. One caipirinha was all we needed for the day! After lunch, we stumbled out to walk along the major boulevards behind our hotel. Surprisingly, there were not very many tourist shops as I would have expected. Rio bustles with the everyday traffic of locals, rather than rely on the cultural tourism in Salvador. It was nice not being hassled into buy something on every street corner.
Copacabana Beach
Once Allison and Sara headed back to the hotel for a nap, Alex, Corey and I headed to the beach to check out the waves and view of the bay. Because of the poor weather, it was absolutely deserted except for a few runners and guys in speedos. Well, there was nothing else to do but test the water, so we stripped down and hopped in for a taste of the salty waves. While watching the beach, we saw a man dig a hole, poop in it and then cover it back up before heading back to the water. Totally grossed out, we decided not to taste the water anymore. After a quick shower back at the hotel, we explored the city streets as little more and visited Shopping Rio Sul, which is an equivalent to the Westchester Mall. We stayed long enough for an espresso and went back to meet everyone for dinner.
Dinner and Night
Everyone meet in the lobby at 7PM to head to Vinicius, a beautiful outdoor restaurant in the middle of the Impanema district. We spent the night chatting away and sharing new food discoveries, until we headed out to wander colorful Impanema. The most beautiful part of Rio was seeing the tropical, vein covered trees that sprung up along the streets. During our venture, we found an Irish Pub called Schooligans that seemed to find every SAS kid in Rio, including the ones doing it “indy” (independently). It was quiz night, which was a lot of fun, but Allison, Corey and I headed back to the Golden Tulip for nightcaps of suco do maracuje (juice of maracuje–my favorite new juice) and watch the waves on the beach.
Highs and Lows
My “high” was watching a man poop in the sand. My “low” was not getting to go hang gliding on our free day because the weather was bad.
Sunday, September 7, 2008
Day 10 – Salvador, Brazil
Sept 7th
Oi Brazil! (Hi Brazil!)
At 7AM the M.V. Explorer docked at the Comercio in Salvador, Brazil. A lot of kids went up to the deck to watch us pull in, but I slept in and woke up to the beautiful harbor of Brazil outside my porthole. Everyone gathered in the Union for a mandatory diplomatic briefing by Ms. Heather Marques, Consular Agent of Salvador. Ms. Marques informed us on political issues, social problems and culture differences that we would experience off the ship. It was a little hectic after that figuring out where to collect our passports and what order we could get off, but by 9:45AM I was walking off the gangplank onto Brazilian soil for the first time. The dock was less than impressive as we came off on the back alleyways of a sketchy and dirty seaport, but we did have a lively reception by locals playing percussion instruments.
Lower City: Market and Harbor
We were happy to get out of the port area and away from the street leading to it. We lovingly nicknamed the port street “pee street” because of the rancid smell and numerous locals we saw urinating there. There were even government prohibitory signs asking locals not to pee there, but I don’t think the urinating stick figures really meant anything to anyone. Regardless, we made our way through the lower city to Mercado Modelo, which was this huge yellow building filled with street vendors selling the same collection of tourist souvenirs. The main items were handcrafted leather sandals, colorful paintings, carved Afro-Brazilian wooden figures, white woven cloths and Brazil paraphernalia. Food vendors filled the surrounding area, so you could refresh yourself with Gunara (Red Bull like soda made from natural Amazonian ingredients), Skol (Brazilian beer), sugarcane drinks and coconut juice. They literally pull out a giant machete, hack off the top of the green coconut, pop in a straw and hand it to you. All for 2 reais! There were tons of food stalls, but we knew better than to get traveler’s diarrhea on the first day.
Upper City
Because of the separation of two tatonic plates, the more historical district in the upper city requires elevator access. Crammed in, we paid 5 centavos to ride up the rickety elevator that had black, fire-scorched doors and some rather large and usual dents. Regardless, the Elevador Lacerda brings locals and tourists 250 feet up to a spectacular view of the harbor and surrounding islands. After some photos of the panoramic view and of the old European-style Jesuit Square, we wander to the right into the Sao Paulo district of Salvador. As we began to wander down the cobblestone streets, we realized that the city seemed dead: very few people were walking around, buildings looked abandoned and most shops were closed. Then we started to hear police sirens and a huge, yelling crowd. Upon reaching the next major square, we realized it was Brazil’s Independence Day parade with soldiers, firemen, police and national guards marching down the main street toward the harbor with music and sirens blaring. Joining the revealers, we fit right in and no one really seemed to notice our white faces sticking out in the crowd. After wandering further down, we realized we were definitely in a residential part of the city. There wasn’t anything very touristy about it. We did, however, discover the most beautiful view in Salvador. We found a back alley road that wraps around the top of the upper city hill. The concrete was breaking apart and there were holes in the cement walkway that warned you of the ominous drop below, but the view of the harbor was spectacular. After a brief debate on our safety, we headed back past the elevator toward Pelourinho Square, which is famous for slave auctions back in the day.
Pelourinho Square
We passed a bronze statue commemorating a local Bishop, who was eaten by locals because they thought it was a good omen to eat important people. (I was happy I was just a tourist.) Heading up bumpy cobblestone streets, we walked into the spacious and lively center of Pelourinho Square. Surrounded by antique European houses erected by the Portuguese in the 16th century, the square was a beautiful and lively place to witness Afro-Brazilian culture. Students performed capoeria, a martial arts dance that was invented by slaves to strengthen the body without their masters knowing. Some poor kids from the nearby favelas (slums) tried to get SAS kids to take pictures of them performing capoeria and then pay a “contributions to the arts” fee. Stupid Americans. Women dressed in traditional Candomble religious garb (colorful woven dresses) circled the square offering to take pictures with tourists as well. African slaves created the highly spiritual religion by merging African beliefs with Catholicism in order to pacify their masters. Overall, the Afro-Brazilian sentiment was extremely evident in Salvador.
Lunch at Canta da Luna
We decided to head to the nearest tourist eatery for traditional Bahian (state where Salvador is located) cuisine. Canta de Luna was swarming with SAS kids devouring their first port meal. Looking at the Portuguese menu we collectively decided to go with “sandquich do file milen,” since South America is well known for its meat selection. The resulting steak on a hamburger bun was juicy and delicious, and washed down nicely with a round of Skol. The best part of the meal was when the waitress insisted for 30 mins in Portuguese that Christina order “fish balls” rather than the “cheese balls” that she really wanted. Apparently, it was the best item on the menu and she would not leave until one of us ordered it. After some locals started taking pictures of us eating, we left to explore some more.
Welcome Reception
After lunch, we ventured around the local shops and winding streets to try our hand at bartering. It provided to be a great success. One thing I noticed about the shops is that they will make souvenirs out of anything they can find. Britney bought a hat made entirely out of soda can tabs! After more shopping, we headed back to the ship to shower and nap before the night’s welcome reception. After taking buses to the Barra district near the eastern beaches of Salvador, we entered a colorful, neon circus tent. Local students playing berimbaus (best described as a violin with wooden cup to hit) greeted us and performed capoeria. Candomble women dressed in traditional dress tied fita (ribbons) to our wrists. The fita came from a local church called Biofim, and each knot tied represents a wish. As the ribbon wears and falls off the three wishes are supposed to come true. Each of the colors of the ribbon holds a special meaning as well. For example, the green ribbon I got represents fertility. The rest of the night was full of food, entertainment and dancing! They served about 10 traditional foods, including empanadas, acaraje, abara and the most delicious fluffy white bread I have ever eaten. It totally trumps the black bread at Cheesecake Factory if you can imagine that! We even got to grill cheese on a skewer, like the way Americans make s’mores. There were fire batons, aerobics, dancers elevated by ribbons and a percussion group that played samba music. Everyone was dancing to the infectious beat and drinking as much as the free beer as they wanted. No 4 drink limit like on the Explorer anymore! (Later we realized it was non-alcoholic beer.) As the night wore on, the music changed to a DJ who played techno and hip hop. The best part was the 8 foot screen erected next to the dance floor that played the Brail versus Chile soccer game. A large group of men circled the screen rather than dance around like fools with the girls. Lauren, Leah and I headed to the bus with our mango, guava and acai popsicles, respectively.
Highs and Lows
My “high” was getting boxed out of dancing with Lauren and Leah because an eight year-old boy stepped in to dance with both of them! (The pimp!) My “low” was hearing about a SAS girl got mugged within an hour of leaving the ship.
Oi Brazil! (Hi Brazil!)
At 7AM the M.V. Explorer docked at the Comercio in Salvador, Brazil. A lot of kids went up to the deck to watch us pull in, but I slept in and woke up to the beautiful harbor of Brazil outside my porthole. Everyone gathered in the Union for a mandatory diplomatic briefing by Ms. Heather Marques, Consular Agent of Salvador. Ms. Marques informed us on political issues, social problems and culture differences that we would experience off the ship. It was a little hectic after that figuring out where to collect our passports and what order we could get off, but by 9:45AM I was walking off the gangplank onto Brazilian soil for the first time. The dock was less than impressive as we came off on the back alleyways of a sketchy and dirty seaport, but we did have a lively reception by locals playing percussion instruments.
Lower City: Market and Harbor
We were happy to get out of the port area and away from the street leading to it. We lovingly nicknamed the port street “pee street” because of the rancid smell and numerous locals we saw urinating there. There were even government prohibitory signs asking locals not to pee there, but I don’t think the urinating stick figures really meant anything to anyone. Regardless, we made our way through the lower city to Mercado Modelo, which was this huge yellow building filled with street vendors selling the same collection of tourist souvenirs. The main items were handcrafted leather sandals, colorful paintings, carved Afro-Brazilian wooden figures, white woven cloths and Brazil paraphernalia. Food vendors filled the surrounding area, so you could refresh yourself with Gunara (Red Bull like soda made from natural Amazonian ingredients), Skol (Brazilian beer), sugarcane drinks and coconut juice. They literally pull out a giant machete, hack off the top of the green coconut, pop in a straw and hand it to you. All for 2 reais! There were tons of food stalls, but we knew better than to get traveler’s diarrhea on the first day.
Upper City
Because of the separation of two tatonic plates, the more historical district in the upper city requires elevator access. Crammed in, we paid 5 centavos to ride up the rickety elevator that had black, fire-scorched doors and some rather large and usual dents. Regardless, the Elevador Lacerda brings locals and tourists 250 feet up to a spectacular view of the harbor and surrounding islands. After some photos of the panoramic view and of the old European-style Jesuit Square, we wander to the right into the Sao Paulo district of Salvador. As we began to wander down the cobblestone streets, we realized that the city seemed dead: very few people were walking around, buildings looked abandoned and most shops were closed. Then we started to hear police sirens and a huge, yelling crowd. Upon reaching the next major square, we realized it was Brazil’s Independence Day parade with soldiers, firemen, police and national guards marching down the main street toward the harbor with music and sirens blaring. Joining the revealers, we fit right in and no one really seemed to notice our white faces sticking out in the crowd. After wandering further down, we realized we were definitely in a residential part of the city. There wasn’t anything very touristy about it. We did, however, discover the most beautiful view in Salvador. We found a back alley road that wraps around the top of the upper city hill. The concrete was breaking apart and there were holes in the cement walkway that warned you of the ominous drop below, but the view of the harbor was spectacular. After a brief debate on our safety, we headed back past the elevator toward Pelourinho Square, which is famous for slave auctions back in the day.
Pelourinho Square
We passed a bronze statue commemorating a local Bishop, who was eaten by locals because they thought it was a good omen to eat important people. (I was happy I was just a tourist.) Heading up bumpy cobblestone streets, we walked into the spacious and lively center of Pelourinho Square. Surrounded by antique European houses erected by the Portuguese in the 16th century, the square was a beautiful and lively place to witness Afro-Brazilian culture. Students performed capoeria, a martial arts dance that was invented by slaves to strengthen the body without their masters knowing. Some poor kids from the nearby favelas (slums) tried to get SAS kids to take pictures of them performing capoeria and then pay a “contributions to the arts” fee. Stupid Americans. Women dressed in traditional Candomble religious garb (colorful woven dresses) circled the square offering to take pictures with tourists as well. African slaves created the highly spiritual religion by merging African beliefs with Catholicism in order to pacify their masters. Overall, the Afro-Brazilian sentiment was extremely evident in Salvador.
Lunch at Canta da Luna
We decided to head to the nearest tourist eatery for traditional Bahian (state where Salvador is located) cuisine. Canta de Luna was swarming with SAS kids devouring their first port meal. Looking at the Portuguese menu we collectively decided to go with “sandquich do file milen,” since South America is well known for its meat selection. The resulting steak on a hamburger bun was juicy and delicious, and washed down nicely with a round of Skol. The best part of the meal was when the waitress insisted for 30 mins in Portuguese that Christina order “fish balls” rather than the “cheese balls” that she really wanted. Apparently, it was the best item on the menu and she would not leave until one of us ordered it. After some locals started taking pictures of us eating, we left to explore some more.
Welcome Reception
After lunch, we ventured around the local shops and winding streets to try our hand at bartering. It provided to be a great success. One thing I noticed about the shops is that they will make souvenirs out of anything they can find. Britney bought a hat made entirely out of soda can tabs! After more shopping, we headed back to the ship to shower and nap before the night’s welcome reception. After taking buses to the Barra district near the eastern beaches of Salvador, we entered a colorful, neon circus tent. Local students playing berimbaus (best described as a violin with wooden cup to hit) greeted us and performed capoeria. Candomble women dressed in traditional dress tied fita (ribbons) to our wrists. The fita came from a local church called Biofim, and each knot tied represents a wish. As the ribbon wears and falls off the three wishes are supposed to come true. Each of the colors of the ribbon holds a special meaning as well. For example, the green ribbon I got represents fertility. The rest of the night was full of food, entertainment and dancing! They served about 10 traditional foods, including empanadas, acaraje, abara and the most delicious fluffy white bread I have ever eaten. It totally trumps the black bread at Cheesecake Factory if you can imagine that! We even got to grill cheese on a skewer, like the way Americans make s’mores. There were fire batons, aerobics, dancers elevated by ribbons and a percussion group that played samba music. Everyone was dancing to the infectious beat and drinking as much as the free beer as they wanted. No 4 drink limit like on the Explorer anymore! (Later we realized it was non-alcoholic beer.) As the night wore on, the music changed to a DJ who played techno and hip hop. The best part was the 8 foot screen erected next to the dance floor that played the Brail versus Chile soccer game. A large group of men circled the screen rather than dance around like fools with the girls. Lauren, Leah and I headed to the bus with our mango, guava and acai popsicles, respectively.
Highs and Lows
My “high” was getting boxed out of dancing with Lauren and Leah because an eight year-old boy stepped in to dance with both of them! (The pimp!) My “low” was hearing about a SAS girl got mugged within an hour of leaving the ship.
Saturday, September 6, 2008
Day 9 – Pre-port for Brazil
Sept 6th
The ship was buzzing with excitement about landing in port tomorrow. We had some on ship briefings about Brazil’s economic, political and cultural highlights. Then we learned about all the sites and things to do and some new phrases (the only one of which I remember is obligado or “thank you”). We also learned important gestures, like the tumbs up means "okay" and the A-okay sign (holding your tumb and pointer together in a circle) means "asshole." Not much else to report!
The ship was buzzing with excitement about landing in port tomorrow. We had some on ship briefings about Brazil’s economic, political and cultural highlights. Then we learned about all the sites and things to do and some new phrases (the only one of which I remember is obligado or “thank you”). We also learned important gestures, like the tumbs up means "okay" and the A-okay sign (holding your tumb and pointer together in a circle) means "asshole." Not much else to report!
Friday, September 5, 2008
Day 8 – Neptune Day
Sept 5th
Festivities
After drifting off to a late sleep, I was completely disoriented when our cabin stewards began banging pots and pans at 7AM. Upon opening our door, Julie and I discovered our friendly-faced Dalfie dressed in an aluminum foil helmet and white toga cheerful singing some song that wasn’t English. After diving back in bed, I couldn’t fall asleep to the continued percussion that was marching up and down our hall. My grogginess faded when I got to the top deck, which was packed with students watching professors dressed like kings and queens. Since it was the first time most of us were passing the equator, we had to go through a ceremony to become official “shellbacks.” This ceremony involved having fish guts dumped on us, swimming across the pool, kissing a wet, scaly fish and Medusa’s ring before finally being knighted by Neptune. Of course the “fish guts” were really colored water mixed with fish sauce for the smell, but the whole thing was pretty fun. It took hours to get everyone through, so in the meantime students got their heads shaved as part of the ceremony. One boy won a raffle to get your head shaved by the captain, while about 50-60 other of kids got their heads shaved by other staff. Some opted for mohawks and a lot of the girls donated their hair to locks of love. There were about 20 adventurous girls that went through with it too. I was pretty impressed. After the festivities died down, the crew scrubbed away the clumps of hair and fish smell with soapy water. Of course this excited a number of college students who realized we could then make the deck into an impromptu slip and slide. With each wave, students glided on their bellies across the floor. I think the crew found it as entertaining as we all did. Since we had the day free, we mostly hung around the top deck. I had my second animal sighting! Some black and white bird called a “mashed booby” flew around the ship for a while. At least there is some indicator of land near us!
Cultural Pre-Port
We had an orientation meeting to prepare us for arrival in Brazil. This included presenting the general cultural practices, food delicacies and places to see while in Salvador, Rio and nearby places. The program with capoeira music and a samba dance party. A few brave souls, including an elderly life long learner, boogied down in front of the whole crowd.
Another Pub Night
Another packed pub night tonight. We celebrated our imminent arrival in Brazil as we enviously watched the lights along the distant coast. As the night wore down, a crowd of us decided to play limbo with a rolled up t-shirt, leaving me to hear “How low can you go…?” ringing in my sleep.
Highs and Lows
My “high” was late night limbo and late night fro yo. My “low” was kissing the same mono-prone fish that 600 other college students kissed.
Festivities
After drifting off to a late sleep, I was completely disoriented when our cabin stewards began banging pots and pans at 7AM. Upon opening our door, Julie and I discovered our friendly-faced Dalfie dressed in an aluminum foil helmet and white toga cheerful singing some song that wasn’t English. After diving back in bed, I couldn’t fall asleep to the continued percussion that was marching up and down our hall. My grogginess faded when I got to the top deck, which was packed with students watching professors dressed like kings and queens. Since it was the first time most of us were passing the equator, we had to go through a ceremony to become official “shellbacks.” This ceremony involved having fish guts dumped on us, swimming across the pool, kissing a wet, scaly fish and Medusa’s ring before finally being knighted by Neptune. Of course the “fish guts” were really colored water mixed with fish sauce for the smell, but the whole thing was pretty fun. It took hours to get everyone through, so in the meantime students got their heads shaved as part of the ceremony. One boy won a raffle to get your head shaved by the captain, while about 50-60 other of kids got their heads shaved by other staff. Some opted for mohawks and a lot of the girls donated their hair to locks of love. There were about 20 adventurous girls that went through with it too. I was pretty impressed. After the festivities died down, the crew scrubbed away the clumps of hair and fish smell with soapy water. Of course this excited a number of college students who realized we could then make the deck into an impromptu slip and slide. With each wave, students glided on their bellies across the floor. I think the crew found it as entertaining as we all did. Since we had the day free, we mostly hung around the top deck. I had my second animal sighting! Some black and white bird called a “mashed booby” flew around the ship for a while. At least there is some indicator of land near us!
Cultural Pre-Port
We had an orientation meeting to prepare us for arrival in Brazil. This included presenting the general cultural practices, food delicacies and places to see while in Salvador, Rio and nearby places. The program with capoeira music and a samba dance party. A few brave souls, including an elderly life long learner, boogied down in front of the whole crowd.
Another Pub Night
Another packed pub night tonight. We celebrated our imminent arrival in Brazil as we enviously watched the lights along the distant coast. As the night wore down, a crowd of us decided to play limbo with a rolled up t-shirt, leaving me to hear “How low can you go…?” ringing in my sleep.
Highs and Lows
My “high” was late night limbo and late night fro yo. My “low” was kissing the same mono-prone fish that 600 other college students kissed.
Thursday, September 4, 2008
Day 7 – Southern Hemisphere or Bust!
Sept 4th
Small World
While passing the time before econ, I began chatting with another girl next to me. We talked about class and other such mundane topics. Once we settled into our seats and I began to prepare for class, the strangest thing happened. Once I retrieved my nametag from my bag, she exclaimed, “You’re Jenny Fisher’s sister?!” I hesitated and replied, “Ummm yea…?” Apparently I had just met Jenny’s Sigma Delt little sister! Our laughter was only muffled by our professor’s evil stare, forcing us to postpone our excitement till lunch.
Passing the equator
To pass the time after dinner, a group of us headed to the Union to hear speakers tell personal “sea stories.” The professors were hilarious with their vulgar, unique tales. One professor told us about how she saved a chartered yacht from sinking in the Caribbean, but unfortunately failed to save two fancy lap dogs that died stiff with rigor mortus in the bathtub. (I know, don’t ask.) The other professor actually dressed as a pirate and told us of his first experiences working on cruise ships as a young adult. Just imagine this young, Jewish boy with curly brown hair hanging around with the multicultural deck hands. Needless to say he didn’t quite fit in. During the performance, we snuck out to celebrate the passing of the equator on the top deck. At 8PM the captain blew the ship’s whistle and all the students gathered on deck cheered and shouted. Many of us took pictures of the water and the giant, red line that clearly marks the ocean’s equatorial line. Just kidding. We didn’t see anything at all, just more rolling waves. The buzz and excitement on deck was enough to make it worth it anyway.
What do you do…
Imagine you have 600 college students with nothing to do on a cruise ship off the coast of South America. Now, what to do with them at night? Apparently, the answer to that is set them in front of a TV set to watch Pirates of the Caribbean (just like you did when they were kids) OR present them with a plethora of board games to keep them occupied. Well, our night was filled with Uno, Pictionary, War, Scrabble, Kent and just about everything but Janga (for obvious reasons).
Highs and Lows
My “high” was cruising into the Southern Hemisphere. My “low” was discovering there is a 6AM wake up call for Neptune day tomorrow.
Small World
While passing the time before econ, I began chatting with another girl next to me. We talked about class and other such mundane topics. Once we settled into our seats and I began to prepare for class, the strangest thing happened. Once I retrieved my nametag from my bag, she exclaimed, “You’re Jenny Fisher’s sister?!” I hesitated and replied, “Ummm yea…?” Apparently I had just met Jenny’s Sigma Delt little sister! Our laughter was only muffled by our professor’s evil stare, forcing us to postpone our excitement till lunch.
Passing the equator
To pass the time after dinner, a group of us headed to the Union to hear speakers tell personal “sea stories.” The professors were hilarious with their vulgar, unique tales. One professor told us about how she saved a chartered yacht from sinking in the Caribbean, but unfortunately failed to save two fancy lap dogs that died stiff with rigor mortus in the bathtub. (I know, don’t ask.) The other professor actually dressed as a pirate and told us of his first experiences working on cruise ships as a young adult. Just imagine this young, Jewish boy with curly brown hair hanging around with the multicultural deck hands. Needless to say he didn’t quite fit in. During the performance, we snuck out to celebrate the passing of the equator on the top deck. At 8PM the captain blew the ship’s whistle and all the students gathered on deck cheered and shouted. Many of us took pictures of the water and the giant, red line that clearly marks the ocean’s equatorial line. Just kidding. We didn’t see anything at all, just more rolling waves. The buzz and excitement on deck was enough to make it worth it anyway.
What do you do…
Imagine you have 600 college students with nothing to do on a cruise ship off the coast of South America. Now, what to do with them at night? Apparently, the answer to that is set them in front of a TV set to watch Pirates of the Caribbean (just like you did when they were kids) OR present them with a plethora of board games to keep them occupied. Well, our night was filled with Uno, Pictionary, War, Scrabble, Kent and just about everything but Janga (for obvious reasons).
Highs and Lows
My “high” was cruising into the Southern Hemisphere. My “low” was discovering there is a 6AM wake up call for Neptune day tomorrow.
Wednesday, September 3, 2008
Day 6 – Misadventures
Sept 3rd
Stuck with some glue
Since class finished at noon, I found myself with an awful lot of time to kill on a boat in the sea. While lounging on the top deck, I noticed a white speck come flying off my face mid sentence. After scrounging around for a bit, I found the nosepiece to my sunglasses under a lounge chair. Thus, my quest: find super glue! My objective: repair my sunglasses! After mingling about the ship for a few minuets, I even discovered someone who carried a tiny tube of ultra super glue on them! Weird? Despite ripping some skin off my index finger, it was a great success! Now my sunglasses are personalized with my finger print on the left nose piece—forever to be covered with my DNA. Still with some time to kill, I found another bored friend who had the brilliant idea of super gluing a quarter to the floor. With a little coaching and my suggestion of the Union, Becca glued a quarter face up in the right aisle of the Union. It didn’t stick well, but it will be fun to look out for tomorrow.
Julie’s Discovery
After dinner, I finally told Julie the note was from me! We had a good laugh. Thankfully, she was very good-humored about it and thought it was hilarious. The best part was that she never once accused me of doing it. Her friend Faith got most of the blame. (Sorry, Faith!)
Anomalies
After finishing a group project about the Brazilian Agro-Fuel Movement, I headed outside to catch the last possible glimpse of the North Star. After we cross the equator tomorrow, it will below the horizon. It’s also the last day toilets swirl to the left, since once we pass the equator gravity pulls toilet water to the right. Who knew? Tomorrow is the much anticipated “Neptune Day.” Can’t wait to see who shaves their heads…
Highs and Lows
My “high” was seeing flying fish fly a few feet out of the wake of the ship. My “low” was realizing my neon colored pee meant I was dehydrated.
Stuck with some glue
Since class finished at noon, I found myself with an awful lot of time to kill on a boat in the sea. While lounging on the top deck, I noticed a white speck come flying off my face mid sentence. After scrounging around for a bit, I found the nosepiece to my sunglasses under a lounge chair. Thus, my quest: find super glue! My objective: repair my sunglasses! After mingling about the ship for a few minuets, I even discovered someone who carried a tiny tube of ultra super glue on them! Weird? Despite ripping some skin off my index finger, it was a great success! Now my sunglasses are personalized with my finger print on the left nose piece—forever to be covered with my DNA. Still with some time to kill, I found another bored friend who had the brilliant idea of super gluing a quarter to the floor. With a little coaching and my suggestion of the Union, Becca glued a quarter face up in the right aisle of the Union. It didn’t stick well, but it will be fun to look out for tomorrow.
Julie’s Discovery
After dinner, I finally told Julie the note was from me! We had a good laugh. Thankfully, she was very good-humored about it and thought it was hilarious. The best part was that she never once accused me of doing it. Her friend Faith got most of the blame. (Sorry, Faith!)
Anomalies
After finishing a group project about the Brazilian Agro-Fuel Movement, I headed outside to catch the last possible glimpse of the North Star. After we cross the equator tomorrow, it will below the horizon. It’s also the last day toilets swirl to the left, since once we pass the equator gravity pulls toilet water to the right. Who knew? Tomorrow is the much anticipated “Neptune Day.” Can’t wait to see who shaves their heads…
Highs and Lows
My “high” was seeing flying fish fly a few feet out of the wake of the ship. My “low” was realizing my neon colored pee meant I was dehydrated.
Tuesday, September 2, 2008
Day 5 – At sea
Sept 2nd
Early Riser
Despite loosing an hour of sleep, I woke up early to test out the gym. Unfortunately, half the students that signed up weren’t there, so I could have definitely gone later and gotten more sleep. Regardless, running on the treadmill turned out to be quite the adventure! I felt a little ridiculous grasping the handle bars, while desperately trying to balance myself against the ship’s swaying. Luckily, the elliptical ended up being much more manageable since you hold on anyway.
Classes and such
Today was econ and soc. My soc homework assignments was to “break a social norm,” by dressing up excessively for class. No one even noticed when another girl and I wore dresses and heels because half the girls on this ship dress that way anyway. Only Charlie, who wore slacks, shirt, tie and dress shoes, was singled out as ‘spiffy.’ Other groups’ assignments included walking around with toilet paper in their pants, cutting people in line and spreading rumors on the ship. The ship’s coziness makes it highly conducive to rumors. One such that my class spread was that we would each be charged $2,000 for having to go 75 miles off course to avoid a hurricane. Students were freaking out about it at dinner. The Helm, which is the onboard newspaper/memo, had to include a special note that said rumor was false. Between classes, I lunched on my peanut-butter sandwich on the pool deck. When it got too hot, I took my first, dip in the salt-water pool. By filling the pool with ocean water, students smugly claim we can swam in every ocean! I can’t stand in the deep end, but the best part is the wave pool effect. Not big enough for surfing, but enough to get a slap in the face sometimes.
First Prank
After stopping to talk to Jen and Alexis, two girls I met on Pub Night, Julie runs up to me to tell me this embarrassing story. Apparently, one of the kitchen staff told her she “has the most beautiful face on this dinning center.” So, he asks for her name, she tells him and she sprints away to the safety of her table. After a nerve-racking meal of trying to avoid all possible forms of eye contact, she heads to the deck to relay the story to me. Understand that Julie is super sweet and conservative (not religiously- thank god), so this totally freaked her out. After she told me the story, we parted ways and I headed back to the room to get some serious reading done. Suddenly, it dawned on me I should make light of the situation and write her a little note courtesy of an admiring kitchen staff member. Just a short while later, Julie comes barging into the room totally stressed out with this creepy note that says:
After observing the misspelling, poor English and bad grammar we deduced “It must be him!” Watching her obsess over the note for the night was delightful, but I’ll let her know who it really was tomorrow.
Highs and Lows
My “high” was my day of firsts—gym, pool and prank. My “low” was discovering that literally half the students dropped my soc class bc they hated the first assignment.
Early Riser
Despite loosing an hour of sleep, I woke up early to test out the gym. Unfortunately, half the students that signed up weren’t there, so I could have definitely gone later and gotten more sleep. Regardless, running on the treadmill turned out to be quite the adventure! I felt a little ridiculous grasping the handle bars, while desperately trying to balance myself against the ship’s swaying. Luckily, the elliptical ended up being much more manageable since you hold on anyway.
Classes and such
Today was econ and soc. My soc homework assignments was to “break a social norm,” by dressing up excessively for class. No one even noticed when another girl and I wore dresses and heels because half the girls on this ship dress that way anyway. Only Charlie, who wore slacks, shirt, tie and dress shoes, was singled out as ‘spiffy.’ Other groups’ assignments included walking around with toilet paper in their pants, cutting people in line and spreading rumors on the ship. The ship’s coziness makes it highly conducive to rumors. One such that my class spread was that we would each be charged $2,000 for having to go 75 miles off course to avoid a hurricane. Students were freaking out about it at dinner. The Helm, which is the onboard newspaper/memo, had to include a special note that said rumor was false. Between classes, I lunched on my peanut-butter sandwich on the pool deck. When it got too hot, I took my first, dip in the salt-water pool. By filling the pool with ocean water, students smugly claim we can swam in every ocean! I can’t stand in the deep end, but the best part is the wave pool effect. Not big enough for surfing, but enough to get a slap in the face sometimes.
First Prank
After stopping to talk to Jen and Alexis, two girls I met on Pub Night, Julie runs up to me to tell me this embarrassing story. Apparently, one of the kitchen staff told her she “has the most beautiful face on this dinning center.” So, he asks for her name, she tells him and she sprints away to the safety of her table. After a nerve-racking meal of trying to avoid all possible forms of eye contact, she heads to the deck to relay the story to me. Understand that Julie is super sweet and conservative (not religiously- thank god), so this totally freaked her out. After she told me the story, we parted ways and I headed back to the room to get some serious reading done. Suddenly, it dawned on me I should make light of the situation and write her a little note courtesy of an admiring kitchen staff member. Just a short while later, Julie comes barging into the room totally stressed out with this creepy note that says:
Dear Julie,
You really are the most beautiful girl I see. I cheked the manifest to find here.
I wish it to be real you. Please meet me at the gangplank on 2 deck.
Your friend from meals,
You really are the most beautiful girl I see. I cheked the manifest to find here.
I wish it to be real you. Please meet me at the gangplank on 2 deck.
Your friend from meals,
After observing the misspelling, poor English and bad grammar we deduced “It must be him!” Watching her obsess over the note for the night was delightful, but I’ll let her know who it really was tomorrow.
Highs and Lows
My “high” was my day of firsts—gym, pool and prank. My “low” was discovering that literally half the students dropped my soc class bc they hated the first assignment.
Monday, September 1, 2008
Day 3/4 – First Day of Classes
August 31th – September 1st
‘A’ Days: econ and soc
We spent the day docked in San Juan, Puerto Rico to refuel the ship. Because of a nearby Hurricane Hannah, we deviated course about 75 miles. We weren’t allowed off, because of “class” and the limited time available. I took some great pics from the deck anyway. Then I headed down to ‘Development Econ and Policy.’ I am really excited for the class. We’re learning about poverty, urban pressures and economic instability in each of our port countries. For example, India has about 60% of the population living under $2 a day, while Malaysia has about 6%. It will be a really eye-opening class. Course requirements include Faculty Developed Practicas (FDPs), which are faculty-lead trips at each port to apply class material to the real world. They are super cheap and really great for learning about policies in each country. Later I had ‘Global Social Movements’ with Professor Scott. She is a tall, slender, black woman that is not afraid to call anyone out. There is no such thing as participation in her class because she just points at you suddenly and expects you to answer. Honestly, I’m a little scared. Scott was once a leader in the Black Panthers and is infamous for out-talking Oprah on her own show! I can’t wait to find the YouTube clip.
Recreation
The gym is consistently packed, but at least there was a masseuse on the pool deck when I went to read outside. It is almost impossible to be dressed for the day, seeing as it is +90o outside and about 65o inside. You have to wear your bathing suit to class under a sweatshirt because it feels so cold. I also found out that they offer a dinner special for those willing to pay $25 for a 5-course meal. A fellow student told me it’s for taking people on dates or birthday dinners. You can also order birthday cakes and cupcakes if you give the kitchen staff 48 hours in advance. I have already found two other kids who are turning 21 in Costa Rica like me, so we are planning a huge SAS birthday bash. I think most people will be up for it seeing it’s the day after finals.
Tonight (Aug 31st) was the first time they had “Pub Night” on the top deck. This is when students can redeem their drink vouchers for wine or beer. Everyone is rationed to two drinks at dinner in the Garden Court and then four drinks on the deck anytime between 7 - 11PM. Security watches over everyone and covers the exit so no one can bring bags or nalgens into the area to accumulate beverages. I didn’t drink, but ended up socializing for over 4 hours! It was amazing to see how kids’ moods changed when alcohol was present. Tons of kids finally smiled, relaxed and opened up more. Oo that social lubricant…
‘B’ Days: global studies and psych
My global studies class, which is called ‘The Rise of Great Powers,’ focuses on international relations, namely in India, China and Japan. It’s history and poli sci based so I think its my least favorite class, but it’s required so I can deal. It’s located in the union at the front of the boat, so every time we go over big waves you really feel it! Very hard to fall asleep in that class! After lunch I had ‘Psych of Food and Culture,’ which is by far my favorite class. It’s all about eating practices, food preferences and rituals in different cultures. I think it may be my favorite because it focuses on FOOD and EATING! Yumm. Dr. Cargill is very dynamic and loves sharing experiences from all her travels. Seeing as I’m already getting tiered of the everyday soup, salad, veggie, meat, pasta, potato, dessert selection, I am looking forward to tasting local “delicacies”… and experiencing the uncomfortable after shocks. Maybe I’ll come home with some exciting new recipes to cook (Get excited family!).
Highs and Lows
My “high” was happening into the activities fair and finding Lauren a girl I shared a taxi with from the airport to hotel (Remember, mom?). My “low” was discovering my new deodorant leaves the scent of maple syrup on my shirts.
‘A’ Days: econ and soc
We spent the day docked in San Juan, Puerto Rico to refuel the ship. Because of a nearby Hurricane Hannah, we deviated course about 75 miles. We weren’t allowed off, because of “class” and the limited time available. I took some great pics from the deck anyway. Then I headed down to ‘Development Econ and Policy.’ I am really excited for the class. We’re learning about poverty, urban pressures and economic instability in each of our port countries. For example, India has about 60% of the population living under $2 a day, while Malaysia has about 6%. It will be a really eye-opening class. Course requirements include Faculty Developed Practicas (FDPs), which are faculty-lead trips at each port to apply class material to the real world. They are super cheap and really great for learning about policies in each country. Later I had ‘Global Social Movements’ with Professor Scott. She is a tall, slender, black woman that is not afraid to call anyone out. There is no such thing as participation in her class because she just points at you suddenly and expects you to answer. Honestly, I’m a little scared. Scott was once a leader in the Black Panthers and is infamous for out-talking Oprah on her own show! I can’t wait to find the YouTube clip.
Recreation
The gym is consistently packed, but at least there was a masseuse on the pool deck when I went to read outside. It is almost impossible to be dressed for the day, seeing as it is +90o outside and about 65o inside. You have to wear your bathing suit to class under a sweatshirt because it feels so cold. I also found out that they offer a dinner special for those willing to pay $25 for a 5-course meal. A fellow student told me it’s for taking people on dates or birthday dinners. You can also order birthday cakes and cupcakes if you give the kitchen staff 48 hours in advance. I have already found two other kids who are turning 21 in Costa Rica like me, so we are planning a huge SAS birthday bash. I think most people will be up for it seeing it’s the day after finals.
Tonight (Aug 31st) was the first time they had “Pub Night” on the top deck. This is when students can redeem their drink vouchers for wine or beer. Everyone is rationed to two drinks at dinner in the Garden Court and then four drinks on the deck anytime between 7 - 11PM. Security watches over everyone and covers the exit so no one can bring bags or nalgens into the area to accumulate beverages. I didn’t drink, but ended up socializing for over 4 hours! It was amazing to see how kids’ moods changed when alcohol was present. Tons of kids finally smiled, relaxed and opened up more. Oo that social lubricant…
‘B’ Days: global studies and psych
My global studies class, which is called ‘The Rise of Great Powers,’ focuses on international relations, namely in India, China and Japan. It’s history and poli sci based so I think its my least favorite class, but it’s required so I can deal. It’s located in the union at the front of the boat, so every time we go over big waves you really feel it! Very hard to fall asleep in that class! After lunch I had ‘Psych of Food and Culture,’ which is by far my favorite class. It’s all about eating practices, food preferences and rituals in different cultures. I think it may be my favorite because it focuses on FOOD and EATING! Yumm. Dr. Cargill is very dynamic and loves sharing experiences from all her travels. Seeing as I’m already getting tiered of the everyday soup, salad, veggie, meat, pasta, potato, dessert selection, I am looking forward to tasting local “delicacies”… and experiencing the uncomfortable after shocks. Maybe I’ll come home with some exciting new recipes to cook (Get excited family!).
Highs and Lows
My “high” was happening into the activities fair and finding Lauren a girl I shared a taxi with from the airport to hotel (Remember, mom?). My “low” was discovering my new deodorant leaves the scent of maple syrup on my shirts.
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